Sr20vet conversion

Hi as per title i have a complete sr20vet from xtrail and i am collecting knowledge before starting my work.
I am changing the cams to n1 cams,
putting rocker arms both sides.
I am deleting cas. Because going on link g4 ecu. Applying cam angle sensor.
Manifold (exaust) will be changed

But I want to ask some additional things
Do i need these parts or oem will work
oil pump and oil strainer
Oil block https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-block-v2-sr20
Do i need to mill the crank pulley

And what other thing and work i need.


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not many people have a VET on here, your best place to find information is on zilvia.net

SR20VET has VVL on inlet only yeah? So will just need rockers for exhaust side. N1 cams can be good with a hefty turbo, what size turbo are you running?

If you're going RWD with it, then you will need to modify the oil pickup or buy one from Mazworx - Mazworx oil pickup.

VE oil pump is required for the extra volume consumed by the cam switching, this puts the timing mark pin in the wrong place but this can be rectified with something like - Taarks timing mark relocation kit.

If using VE oil pump then you must use the VE oil pump collar which is longer, so same amount needs to be milled off crank pulley to get belts to line up again.

You said you're deleting CAS but applying Cam Angle Sensor, do you mean you're changing to a hall effect sensor on the front of the head for cam timing?

Exhaust manifold flange is the same as DET just slot the holes around 3mm, is clearer if you have a VE exhaust gasket to lay over the flange, so any DET kit can be made suitable.

Inlet manifold, if you use the VE throttle body put loctite on the butterfly screws.
Cheapest option is the Xcessive plenum, bear in mind the throttle body flange will need rewelding or the throttle body will contact the bonnet in an S body - Xcessive inlet plenum
Plazmaman intake is supposed to be good quality - Plazmaman intake manifold.
Mazworx is about the same price, early versions had big issues with cracking not sure about now - Mazworx intake manifold
Hypertune is supposed to be very good, looks like price has dropped a bit too - Hypertune intake manifold

Coilpacks need to be slim as the P11 originally used a distributor, people use Honda CBR coilpacks or Denso/AEM pencil coils. I've heard from a reliable source that the Audi coils a lot of people use over here will fit aswell. Or Chevy LS coilpacks with leads, just be careful which version as some of the truck ones have overdwell protection that can cause issues. Or you can swap to the P12/20V cam cover which will take S15 coilpacks and goes straight on P11 head.

Solenoid relocation there are a few options, Taarks make some good ones, there is a slimline single solenoid block which fits in stock location P12 style - Taarks single solenoid kit.
Or a full relocation kit which retains 2 solenoids allowing for independent cam switching - Taarks solenoid relocation block.

Valvetrain needs upgrading, at least stiffer valve springs for turbo applications.

Taarks has a great guide on performing the conversion - Taarks VVL conversion guide.
This thread on Zilvia is excellent for further information too - SR20ve thread.

That covers the basics I think, is loads of information out there!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sair

Hi as per title i have a complete sr20vet from xtrail and i am collecting knowledge before starting my work.
I am changing the cams to n1 cams,
putting rocker arms both sides.
I am deleting cas. Because going on link g4 ecu. Applying cam angle sensor.
Manifold (exaust) will be changed

But I want to ask some additional things
Do i need these parts or oem will work
oil pump and oil strainer
Oil block https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-block-v2-sr20
Do i need to mill the crank pulley

And what other thing and work i need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Im guessing your just going to use the VET cylinder head with the normal DET block like usual? Depending on what power you want N1 cams might not be your best bet, they're meant to be good for 600+hp but under that your better off with the standard VE ones.

Do you mind me asking how much the engine cost you? and where you got it from? I've been looking into the conversion myself and im struggling to find a trustworthy place to buy a VE head from, the only places i can find are either american importers wanting mega bucks or shady ads in japan for a head with no bits and tons on km's on it.