Bloody thing is really starting to piss me off now... anyone know of any common problems that will cause this fuse to blow, basically engine will run for about 20 seconds and then the fuse will blow.
I thaught it was my dodgy AVCR wiring that was causing it but this is now all disconnected and its still doing it, I've had the ECU out and can't see any problems in the ECU wiring at all or the loom out of the ECU.
no idea.
but a tip to help diadnose the problem. replace the fuse with a bulb. when the short occurs the bulb will light up, instead of blowing the fuse. then it's easier to diagnose the problem.
depending of the value of the fuse, put in a larger or smaller wattage bulb.
hth
Easy! Stick a nail in instead of a fuse, and then follow the trail of smoke coming from the problem part.....
Disclaimer - XR33 does not encourage ANYONE to actually try this, and accepts no responsibility for any damage done, or fires started.....
already tried a 15W fuse instead of a 10... it blew it just as quickly and there was no smell of burning anywhere I could detect
take it that was a 15A fuseOriginally Posted by Tenman
already tried a 15W fuse instead of a 10... it blew it just as quickly and there was no smell of burning anywhere I could detect
so replace the fuse with a 50w bulb, which will limit the current in the circuit to around 4A, which shouldn't cause too many problems for the loom, then start wiggling things
So the AVC-R is disconnected and you've taped up any exposed wire now?
Does it just die, or is there any mad buzzing of relays or anything like that?
yup, all AVCR wires clean out of the way and not causing any problems... it just dies... no mad clicking... nothing like that... only other thing I'm thinking of is it could be connecting to the fuel pump fuse behind the fuse box... as thats what I wired in my boost gauge to cos apparantly it needs a constant supply of power while starting.
had the ECU out yesterday and inspected... gonna take the fuse box out tonight and inspect everything behind it.
Sorry for dragging up an old thread but I would only post the same:
Did anyone find a fix for this?
My EC fuse keeps poping now even with 15A one in.
I don't think there will be an easy fix for it as it is not one particular known issue. Would check if theres any visible wiring problems around by the ECU and anywhere where the engine loom is exposed.
People have popped the fuse by badly fitting SAFC's etc.
You could try grims circuit tester idea above.
I ultimately had the whole loom replaced....
Arse. just when i really need the car to be working, hasn't had any wiring or anything done to it; just turned right at a roundabout and then this fuse starts burning out
Maybe i should have turned left instead...
rofl
Mine blew its ECU following a left turn
Wild stab in the dark, but is your car lowered? is it possible the tyre has rubbed through the arch liner on the drivers side and started through the loom too?Arse. just when i really need the car to be working, hasn't had any wiring or anything done to it; just turned right at a roundabout and then this fuse starts burning out
Maybe i should have turned left instead...
just a thought
im sure there was a thread about tis before n it was something to do with the air con / fan
not lowered massively but i'll check for rubbing, it happens without the aircon on too but again i'll check.
Thanks for suggestions, keep em coming!
This is weird, new fuses last ok on idle but as soon as I drive 20 metres it goes.
Then upon replacing the fuse again it goes pop as soon as the pump starts to prime.
After leaving the car for a while the process starts again...
it will pop after 20 yards / 15 mph as thats when the abs switches on it doesnt work under a certain speed
the manual shows the fuse feeds from the ignition (with 3 others that aren't blown) and serves these:
Main, EGRC/V, HO2S, WG/V, VTC
any ideas what these are, ABS in there? VTC sounds awefully like the variable valve timing...?
Last edited by ReTeP; 16-08-2006 at 18:42.
Check your lambda plug. I got the same problem with my engine control fuse and i found a melted lambda plug 5cm. away from my manifold
After fitting a new lambda far away
Right after more digging (s14 manual page EC-11) I found the Engine control fuse serves:
EGRC/V = exhaust gas recirc control valve solenoid (under throttle plate)
H02S = heated oxygen sensor (lambda)
VTC = variable valve timing control solenoid (next to throttle plate)
WG = waste gate control solenoid (on left suspension turret)
So if anyone else reads this thread in despair these are your prime suspects.
Last edited by ReTeP; 17-08-2006 at 19:42.
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