Hopefully be done within the next two weeks, will post some pics up when they are done, guys at GD liked your dash BTWOriginally Posted by Colwell
Looks pretty tidy Ken, be intresting to see th headers made upWas hoping to do a twin system but beacause of the Anti roll bar, fuel tank and diff oil cooler looks like it will be a single using the rear section of the HKS exhaust already on the car.
Will try to get decent pics of each stage
does hinson not do anything ref the headers and exhaust? or is their stuff all l/h drive..top job anyways ken....
They do supply headers but only for LHD, its a bit gutting as they sell them for £400 a pair
About the weight change, I figured you could judge somewhat from spring rate. But I cant get it together....If you have 8kgs/mm spring rate at front and the body raised 10mm, wouldn't that mean something that you have lost 160 kgs somethere? I'm thinking that each 16 kgs (8kgs for each side) you take of the car, it will raise 1 mm. But it might not work that way, what do I know really...
Spring rates I have are 7kg/mm front, standard that come with Tein flex, there is still a bit of weight to go back on the car thinking about it, bumper, exhaust, rad/coolant, lights etc and a few things have been removed/relocated intercooler, catch can and battery. Prop is alloy now so lighter aswell.
Lovely car, mate. Hope the new set up delivers what you're hoping for.
Looking good Ken. The SBC must be smaller than the 1UZ, as you seem to have loads of clearence. Damnit
Did you have to move the brake booster at all? Or is it just the Clutch cyl thats the pain?
Just the clutch cylinder, fair bit of clearance for the brake booster. Probably as it dosent have the extra height of the cams that you have, how are you getting round the brake booster problem?
Last edited by Ken; 16-03-2008 at 11:16.
I'm having non-servo'd pedalbox brakes
I look forward to seeing vids of this thing in action
great project..
i put 20mm spacers on my e30 subframe to fit m5 engine under bonnet, only thing that will be altered is the angulation of steering and lower arms which can affect the roll centre if the car. You can i believe get hubs for the s14 that recorrect this, with an e30 it is easily corrected with more spacers between the strut and bottom part where the arms join:
http://www.muzzimotorsport.com/index...id=8&Itemid=29
unfortunately s14 hub/strut system is different
Thanks, I'll have a look around for those hubs
Have anti bumpsteer trackrods ends which will hopefully allow me to compensate the drop in the rack, wil probably see how the car drives when its finished first and go from there
You should have used a small block ford, the sump would have sat in front of the subframe, no need for messing then.
Anyway, it looks like a fairly easy task. I'm gonna be test fitting a spare big block chevy into my datsun for size. Its got a huge sump, won't be able to use it without moving the rack or installing a steering box from an earlier datsun.
On to your clutch master cylinder issues.
I have a similar problem in my Datsun. Standard one was way to big, it looked like the only solution was to use a remote one. But a short afternoon down a breakers looking at all the ones on different cars, I came across a tiny one from a mk1 MR2, thats probably about half the length of the standard one. A bit of welding to it as the bolt pattern is wrong and job's a goodun. Same piston size too.
Could you get me the measurement of the master cylinder, looks like that may do the job
Wouldn“t you want to raise the subframe rather than lower it. When you have lowered the car the arms positions/alignment is wrong and now you have increased it buy lowering the subframe more.
Seems like a compromise when you could have (possibly) mounted the engine lower with modified sump and engine mounts.
But I“m not judging. Other than that, one hell of a project.
Anything other than 2 individual pipes is completely wrong imo. Some of the corvettes of the 80's went from 2 into 1 and then back in to 2 right at the back and just sounded odd. But thats because they only budgeted for one cat converter.
Will do
If it's like other chevy lumps the oil pump sits low in the sump, so there's not much you can do other than trying to go dry sump.
Whilst I agree, the geometry might be effected, I think its a suck it and see type of game, as the difference might not be too noticeable.
Ideally yes, unfortunately the starter motor would not clear the steering rack and rod coupling if you left the subframe at its normal height and dropped the engine lower down, no one using the kit has reported any adverse handling so will see how it goes
I would have liked a twin system but dosen't look like it will be possible due to ARB, fuel tank and diff oil cooler positions, will be a two into one using the rear section of the HKS exhaust that is on the car.
Last edited by Ken; 17-03-2008 at 09:29.
Whiteline would make you a custom rear anti-roll bar with 2 exhaust loops if you asked them
Or buy two and cut and weld them.Whiteline would make you a custom rear anti-roll bar with 2 exhaust loops if you asked them
Go for sidepipes in front of the rear wheels or something. Or get the tank cut and shut for clearance. Twin pipes are a must
Thanks Ben, good to knowWhiteline would make you a custom rear anti-roll bar with 2 exhaust loops if you asked them
It's also a cost thing, I need to get it up and running first, sort out any issues, might try to do something with the exhaust after.Go for sidepipes in front of the rear wheels or something. Or get the tank cut and shut for clearance. Twin pipes are a must
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