ok lads,, just bought a second hand diff there.. gonna hand it over to my dad to weld for me.. is there anything in particular i should watch out for?
cheers
ok lads,, just bought a second hand diff there.. gonna hand it over to my dad to weld for me.. is there anything in particular i should watch out for?
cheers
Last edited by karlos; 21-05-2008 at 11:53.
Going around corners
hmm expect to hear: sounds like your back end is falling apart upon slow turning! but its fine!
everyone looking at u throughout three point turns and parking lol, im fitting mine soon cant wait lol
ross
either understeer or oversteer, not much inbetween, but fine when your used to it i imagine
SLIDEMOTORSPORT - Find us in the traders section or call 01977 647277
no, it´s the search button, mate
the understeer induced by the 100%lock is the thing to be aware of.
not only when turning in but also mid-corner...
i´ve covered more than 10000km on a welded diff and i´m not going to argue
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make sure you clean the diff very thoroughly after the welding as any bits of weld floating in the casing can cause massive failure...
weld splatter, depending on the welder your using, flush the diff case right out and check the cogs etc for any deposits
right,, ok,, next question.... ok, ive got two diffs,, one is supposidly good, and the other in the car,, not so good,, seems like its only working on one side....
so which diff should i weld.. a) the good one, B) the one which seems to be worn out on one side. cheers
First of all.. can anyone suggest why my diff has numbers on it?
And which parts need the welding? cheers
its maybe been checked over and re-built.
seen the small gears through that hole.
weld them .... weld them all together !
strongly
Fill that hole with weld. Turn the diff round to expose another hole and fill that one with weld. Then do it a third time. I can't remember if there are three or four holes, but basically, just fill all the holes with weld - bollock it in good. Hope you've got a powerful Mig welder so it'll actually melt the cogs - should be OK if you put loads in
spot on boys.. it seems to be a good diff,, very hard to spin the output shafts opposite directions. now all i have to do is get gas for the mig.. but the new laws state you have to have to have a license to get a hold of it, which is costly... but got the casing all hameritted up.
Should be able to get this welded in work no problem.
If you wanna keep the cost down i recommend you completly degrease the whole diff with gunk as that will alow for weld to take properly and all we have to do is weld it
Cant wait to see the effect it has, especially in the wet
Just a word of warning, a mate of mine with a 328 BM has been breakin driveshafts ever since he got his welded.
Also fecked up the bushins.
He's a wild man though, severe on a car.
Maybe the 200 fit to handle it better too, lot of weight in the back of a BM.
I've had a welded diff in my car for 2 years - OK, I haven't done massive mileages, but I've never broken a driveshaft... In fact, I can only think of a couple of people who have, and they were clutch kicking the crap out of it; and I'm not even sure they had welders
i think there was a guy either on here or on dw that hadd a welded diff fail on him and sieze at like 40mph...
it had the same effect as pulling the handbrake up at 40 mph unexpectedly... he was lucky he wasnt on a motor way...
i suppose this could happen with any diff... but just be carefull to wld it up properly...
i used to have a viscous diff shimmed up solid... it was great for sidways antics... but it was hurrendously bad at low speed... but themn again the car was my daily driver at the time...
i have a s15 diff in there at the moment... im getting bored of it... i have 3 spare viscous units in the shed and a spare diff casing... i might wld one of the up for a bit of funn...