Page 4 of 16 FirstFirst ... 2345614 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 80 of 314

Thread: Garage- It's begun!

  1. #61
    Guest Jonny_T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    YORKSHIRE
    Posts
    1,095
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jesus-Ninja View Post
    dpm
    Just be aware it is only a dpm not tanking so if you get a build up of water or the water table rises you do have a risk of water penetration. i know it's unlikely that water will get through 6 inch of concrete but it is possible

  2. #62
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny_T View Post
    Just be aware it is only a dpm not tanking so if you get a build up of water or the water table rises you do have a risk of water penetration. i know it's unlikely that water will get through 6 inch of concrete but it is possible
    Yeah, I know. I'm relying the fact that we live on a hill, and that after a big thaw and then loads of rain, there was just surface water in the pit. Under the clay it was dry. The sheeting is 4m wide and the pit is 1m wide and 1.5m deep which makes it 4m down one side, across the floor and back up the otehr side. This means there are no joins below the top of the pit wall. Where there are joins on each side - they are 600mm over laps with two beads of sikaflex rolled with a roller and then taped with DPM tape. I've double skinned the dpm in the pit as well and am using extra thick (1200ga) better quality DPM.

    I know it's not true tanking, but any water has a long way to go, and if the worst does happen, I have a nice sump with a submersible pump.

    The big question now, though, is what thickness timbers to use for the boards that will go over the pit? Thick enough to support a car, but light enough to be manageable. The pit is 3.5m long, so there will be a few of them!

    A given board will only ever have to support a single wheel at any point in time, so I reckon no more than 500kgs (Front wheel of a large car).

    Anyone know anything about the loading of timbers?
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  3. #63
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by BBB View Post
    Can you put a threaded eye bolt through the bottom into a small metal plate. Then when dry you can put a piece of rope through the eye bolt and pull it out?
    That's not a bad idea
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  4. #64
    Guest BBB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Birkenhead, Wirral, North West UK
    Posts
    6,360
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jesus-Ninja View Post
    Anyone know anything about the loading of timbers?
    I'd be tempted to weld rebar into a grid and then top it with chequer plate. If you do it in small sections then you can remove them as plates. You will need less of a recess at the top of the pit as the sections will be thinner than if you are trying to accomodate 6 inch timbers. And as you're such a rebar star.

  5. #65
    Guest Jonny_T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    YORKSHIRE
    Posts
    1,095
    Rides
    0
    Just make sure the timber is of a good quality (don't buy the cheapest crap ) remember that it will be laid in it's weakest direction. Personally i'd be looking around the 70mm ish wide joists as a minimum a good timber merchant should be able to provide you with strength test for joists

  6. #66
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by BBB View Post
    I'd be tempted to weld rebar into a grid and then top it with chequer plate. If you do it in small sections then you can remove them as plates. You will need less of a recess at the top of the pit as the sections will be thinner than if you are trying to accomodate 6 inch timbers. And as you're such a rebar star.
    I did consider getting timbers drilled through and then inserting reinforcement into them. Seems extreme though.

    Not sure how strong just a mesh of rebar would be - might want to bend.

    Another thought was rectangles of 50mm square section with 13mm ply on top. In fact I like that idea a lot. In fact, even 50mm angle might do it.
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  7. #67
    Guest JJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Germany...yeah i know....weird huh
    Posts
    6,591
    Rides
    0
    Nice job done there Nick
    Lolled at you movie

  8. #68
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Just need to be sure I don't do this...

    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  9. #69
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    walsall/tamworth
    Posts
    6,744
    Rides
    0
    have you left a channel at the edge for you planks to sit in and be flush with the floor?

    id be tempted to use scaffold planks that run from side to side (like the slats on a bed)

  10. #70
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    have you left a channel at the edge for you planks to sit in and be flush with the floor?

    id be tempted to use scaffold planks that run from side to side (like the slats on a bed)
    yup there will be a step around the edge of the pit in the concrete that will be 150mm deep and 100mm wide. This means that 150mm is the thickest I can go, but I hope not go as thick as that. I'll run a timber along the length of the step to make up any difference.

    Hmm, not sure if scaffold planks inspire enough confidence.
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  11. #71
    Guest BBB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Birkenhead, Wirral, North West UK
    Posts
    6,360
    Rides
    0
    What's the width of the pit Nick? I have a table here from the floor loading calcs I did for a half floor in my garage. They're domestic based though, on a imposed loading of not more than 1.5kN/m2

    Example:

    If you space 38x122mm joists at 400mm intervals, you can span a 2.37m gap and support the above loading.

  12. #72
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Ooh, might be useful

    The pit is 910mm wide and then a 100mm lip to pick up on at each end.
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  13. #73
    Guest BBB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Birkenhead, Wirral, North West UK
    Posts
    6,360
    Rides
    0
    So, if you want to span a 1.1m gap, with the biggest gap (600mm) between joists, the minimum size joists you would need of C16 stamped timber are 38 x 97 mm.

    That presuming you then cover the joists with a flooring grade covering, like T&G chipboard.

  14. #74
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    So we're looking at 4" timbers really.

    Am starting to come round to the notion "boards" that are 300mm wide, made from a steel frame with a ply surface.
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  15. #75
    Guest BBB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Birkenhead, Wirral, North West UK
    Posts
    6,360
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jesus-Ninja View Post
    Am starting to come round to the notion "boards" that are 300mm wide, made from a steel frame with a ply surface.
    Yep, that's the baby. 50mm square section, 3mm wall, welded into rectangles of 1.1m x 0.3m and a thick ply surface, coated/painted to make it less porous.

  16. #76
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Building control man came this morning and approved my rebar. He wanted to know why I had used T16 in stead of the spec'ed T12.

    "It's T12." I said

    "No, that's T16"

    "Well, I ordered 168m of T12, and 168m of T12 arrived. The holes in those jigs are 13mm, so I'd be impressed if it was T16"

    "Are you sure"

    "Yes, here's an offcut"

    "Ah, now THAT'S T12, but the stuff in there is T16"

    "I promise you, it was all the same size"

    "You are sure?"



    But the good news is he's happy for now
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  17. #77
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Some more progress today. The floor in the pit went in
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  18. #78
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Tetbury
    Posts
    4,603
    Rides
    0
    Having worked extensively in a pit I always thought it would be a good idea to incorporate some lighting into the structure if I ever built one something like a couple of strip lights sunk in either side of the pit with a removable bit of perspex over the top, are you thinking of doing anything like that?

  19. #79
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    First two courses of blocks have gone in Really starting to feel like something now Also put a hold in the bottom course to allow for my ventilation. This will run up behind the block work and then under thew concrete base and then up the back wall to an extractor fan.
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  20. #80
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Somewhere near you, driving a wrong 'un
    Posts
    9,243
    Rides
    0
    Also, put into place all the services as they'll need to come in though the slab.

    I have electric in, network in, cold water in, hot water in, waste out, sump-pump out. Think that covers everything, but if anyone can suggest anything else, then shout out! I have thought that a smoke alarm that is hooked up to the house would be useful.
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •