Just still in 2 minds about going for it.
Got the Gktech shifter and gearbox mount already...
Just still in 2 minds about going for it.
Got the Gktech shifter and gearbox mount already...
Well this makes things interesting... Thoughts?
http://www.mazworx.com/mazworx-srk-f...apter-kit.aspx
I thought it meant you could use the front wheel drive gearbox from a Honda? As all sr20's are rear wheel?
Pulsar gtir are 4wd aren't they? I had forgotten about the primera. I'll just go back and sit in my corner.
Anyone who's completed this conversion, how does the wiring side line up from Sr box to z33, do the three plugs have a home that fits the same wiring loom? Obviously the speed sensor is not going to work but what about the others on the SR box?
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Gear ratios!
Not sure it's been mentioned so thought I'd add the info as I'm nice like that
This online Gear Ratio Calculator is great!
http://www.cargister.com/calculator-...l_ratio_teeths
Having not tested it against real world figures I've no idea how accurate it is but at least it gives you a reasonable idea.
VQ35HR Gear Ratios:
1st - 3.79
2nd - 2.32
3rd - 1.62
4th - 1.27
5th - 1.00
6th - 0.79
FD - 3.54
Using the calculator and a Final Drive Ratio of 3.9 (which is what I have) I should be able to hit 166mph at the top of 6th and cruise along at 70 just below 3k rpm, nice!
Sounds good. I'm still on 4.1 but I would like to find a 3.9 2way
Has anyone who's done this conversion had any issues with the clutch operation? My clutch pedal only has resistance right at the bottom of its travel, maybe 1 - 2". I'm not sure if I'm being special and haven't bled it correctly, or if there's an issue with the slave cylinder or something.
The master cylinder is a new S14 unit, new braided clutch line, old Z33 slave (not leaking), and Exedy 3-puk clutch.
Which conversion kit?
I had the bell housing machined myself, shifter bracket modified by a fabricator at work, and copied an adaptor plate purchased off a Lithuanian chap on Driftworks.
Last edited by Brookie; 22-02-2018 at 15:16.
Have you bleed the master cylinder before bleeding the slave?
Yes, I bled the master cylinder through the nipple on the side. Working on my own at the moment so I'm using a vacuum bleeder.
After doing some reading about this conversion on American forums and doing some investigation under the car, I've come to the conclusion that my release bearing carrier is too short. This means the slave cylinder is almost at the end of its travel before the clutch has started to disengage. I'm going to have a longer slave cylinder rod machined, which I'm hoping will solve the problem.
I'll come back when I've tried the new rod.
OK, so I tried fitting a longer rod in the slave cylinder, and it still won’t disengage the clutch fully
Sadly this means I need to pull the engine and ‘box, and do some measuring. A longer clutch fork pivot may be the answer. Will post back with any findings.
Right then. I've finally managed to get the clutch to operate correctly!
I removed the engine and gearbox, did some measuring, and found that the release bearing was ~20mm away from the clutch cover when the slave cylinder was in its' shortest position. To overcome this I installed the new style, cast iron clutch fork with the old style (longer) pivot bolt. After a re-bleed, and adjusting the master cylinder rod slightly, it engages and disengages as it should.
I think this conversion is meant to work with the S15 clutch and flywheel, as it is a dual mass flywheel. I'm still using the S14 clutch and flywheel, which is where I think the problem came from.
Yes it’s a direct fit for the s15 iirc. Did you have your bellhousing machined down to fit?
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
Yes, if I remember correctly I had 1/2" machined off the bell housing, and the plate is 10mm.
Might it be worth mentioning in the first thread that an S15 flywheel is required?