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Thread: Fuel tank

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    Fuel tank

    Hi, I've recently replaced my fuel pipes front to back as they were corroded and leaking. I noticed the fuel coming out the old pipes was rusty. I suspet the inside of my tank is very rusty. I was wondering what I could do to de-rust the inside.
    Cheers for any comments.

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    Could be wrong but is the tank not plastic?

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Nah metal on the s13! Search Google for fuel tank cleaner or companies that specialise in doing it! Either way i think the tank will have to come off!

    Have you opened it up (took the fuelpump out) So you can inspect the inside of it? I had mine open the other day and it was Mint!

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    Guest Paddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dastardly View Post
    Hi, I've recently replaced my fuel pipes front to back as they were corroded and leaking. I noticed the fuel coming out the old pipes was rusty. I suspet the inside of my tank is very rusty. I was wondering what I could do to de-rust the inside.
    Cheers for any comments.
    Probably better getting a tank from a breaker mate. My tank had a build up of rust inside. I bought a tank repair kit. Was a pain in the arse tbh. It blocked a breather pipe inside the tank. Ended up getting a second hand tank to solve the issue.

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    Guest DB1's Avatar
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    My tank was clean and shiny inside, original '89 tank on it still.
    I should think if the return line corrodes far enough, it takes some back to the tank, it then sits in the bottom and starts the process in there?

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    I havent took the pump off as the only place the rust can be coming from is the inside lining of the tank. I will have to take the tank off next time I'm off work. I think I might send it off to a repair place.
    Metal tanks corrode on the inside when the car has been sat still for years like mine unfortunately was before I bought it.

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    Its not a difficult job to get the tank off if you know where the bolts are.

    You need to remove the out and return pipes that are under the panel in the boot and attach a piece of wire to them to hold them in position. Also disconnect the electrical connector in the boot.

    If it were me, I would remove the lid at this point and see if it really is rusty inside. Once you take the lid off, you'll need a new o-ring seal to refix it as they swell when contaminated with petrol. (Pikeys cut an inch out of the seal and re-use it ).

    Then remove the passenger side rear inner wing liner and undo the 10mm bolt that holds the neck on.

    Push the rubber cover off that sits behind the petrol flap then undo the two 17mm bolts that hold each of the tank straps. The ones at the axle end are easier to get at with a socket.

    The tank should then drop off.

    Be careful with the filler neck as they rust from the outside and when they perforate, the car gets pretty smelly inside.
    Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 06-03-2013 at 08:53.

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    Guest steve109's Avatar
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    just seen a picture of the R32 skyline petrol tanks, they seem to come with a plastic filler neck and tank wise look identical, maybe the plastic filler neck would be a good replacement if they fit also?


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    Quote Originally Posted by steve109 View Post
    just seen a picture of the R32 skyline petrol tanks, they seem to come with a plastic filler neck and tank wise look identical, maybe the plastic filler neck would be a good replacement if they fit also?
    Isn't the rubber cover that goes around the outside of the fuel cap, a different shape though ?

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    Guest steve109's Avatar
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    There is that rubber surround but it does come off, so might fit around the end of this one as it's only a rubber seal to seal the filler neck and the opening in the body. I took mine off when I painted up my original one last year

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    It would be good to know if it fits. You might even be able to get them from Nissan at not stupid money. (Dream on )

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    Guest steve109's Avatar
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    I was thinking that as well, be handy if someone could put one next to the other and compare them like for like, as everyone seems to have issues with fuel filler necks (I know I do!) and if theres a plastic one available cheaper than a new tank from nissan then its another option at least

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    Someone must have left it open or empty or only put a few a L at a go in for very long time.

    The standard metal neck is mental money.

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    I asked Nissan and they said they cant get hold of new tanks for S13's. And yes I imagine it was left with very little petrol in it.

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    I can confirm r32 tanks do fit. Not sure if a little fettling is required. But nearly enough bolt on.

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    Guest steve109's Avatar
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    Got any more info on it Zornyan?

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    Jonny do you know the part number of the O-ring I'm gonna need?

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    Guest Zornyan's Avatar
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    Ill be fitting one shortly, far as i can see the tank is bolt on, not sure about filler necks but ill try lining both up, ideally we want the r32 one as its plastic. Also worth noting the r32 gtr tank also has alot more baffles compared to the s13 pne, helping with fuel surge.

    Only issue i can forsee is pumps and senders, id rather use the s13 item and modify it if required as if using the gtr item it wont read correctly with the gauge, since the r32 tank can hold 10-15litres more, the s13 one will just go past full by a degree, but if placed correctly will still read the the lower amounts properly.

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    aka Droolingorc Ghazoobe's Avatar
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    I'm picking up an R32 GTR tank at the weekend and fitting it one evening next week so will report back
    bovvered?

  20. #20
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghazoobe View Post
    I'm picking up an R32 GTR tank at the weekend and fitting it one evening next week so will report back


    be interesting to know how it goes - a fair bit of skyline stuff is still available from Nissan so might be easier to get.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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