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Thread: removing standard oil cooler block

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    removing standard oil cooler block

    Hi guys,

    I want to get a remote oil cooler kit for the car and get rid of the crappy standard jobby.

    Is there a non oil cooler sandwich plate available, off a different model engine that doesnt have the standard oil cooler or can I just remove the standard item and replace it with the sandwich plate supplied with the oil cooler kit?

    If someone could point me in the right direction for a nice oil cooler kit it would also be appreciated

    Thanks

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    Apex

    Might as well go the whole hog though and get the cooler/filter relocation kit to make future oil changes that little bit easier

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    Had a filter relocation on my Starlet so yea ideally looking for a kit with one

    Been doing some research and turns out the JDM manual engines are the only engines WITHOUT the standard oil cooler, does anyone make adaptors that replace the standard unit? ( seen some guy making them but thats in Oz) I can imagine finding a stock JDM manual engine being quite difficult otherwise.

    Thanks

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    Nissan part number 15213-W040A



    Last edited by shogun; 26-06-2013 at 16:58.

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    Thats ALL I need??

    Other than the remote sandwich plate that comes with the oil cooler kits?

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    Apart from a thermostat.....

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    I've just snapped the brass T-piece in the cooler block, f*ck!!! Can I remove the stock block if I buy the stud mentioned above? Is that pressure sensor pictured fitted into a hole that already exists as mine was fitted to the cooler block? Anything else I need to know?

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    Yes mate. Original hole in block. If tight with space you could add a hose between sensor and hole and place the sensor wherever you'd like.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Yes mate. Original hole in block. If tight with space you could add a hose between sensor and hole and place the sensor wherever you'd like.
    Excellent. Snapped the easy out in it earlier so it's definitely coming off. I suppose I'll need to loop the two water lines that go into the cooler block once it's removed? What's the chances of me doing this with the mani in place? It's so congested in that area!?! Wish me luck.

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    Some get a slight issue with the cabin heating when looping the lines.
    Solved by adding a little restriction in the loop.

    Blocking 100% is a no go.

    An example on the extended oil line. In this case there are 3 sensors. One for original oil pressure warning light, another for pressure gauge and a third for a second larger warning light.


  12. #12
    Guest BLAKTOOTH's Avatar
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    Just realised this is in S13 tech, oops. Does the same apply for S14 SR?

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    A bit different. You need something like this.






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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Blocking 100% is a no go.
    Why? A JDM CA without the oil cooler hasn't got that coolant flow. Doesn't have a forked outlet at rear of block, just a single tube. That goes to the heater which when set to cold has a coolant tap that shuts off flow as well.

    The one you can't block is the one that comes out the T-stat housing and goes under the throttle back to the return. Without that there is nearly no flow though the head until the stat opens. It won't open until engine is very hot as the hot flow past it will be what goes through the jiggle pin on the stat.

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    In some cases we have seen problems in the behaiviour of the water circulation to different areas when the connections was pluged or joined without a restriction. It is hard to tell the real cause to it without a propper flow check as it may differ from one setup to another.

    The head gasket is also designed to control the flow of water in the head/block.
    Last edited by shogun; 08-10-2013 at 14:35.

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    Have you found page HA-6 "water cock control rod"? The water cock only shuts when temp control is set to fully cold.

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    Yes mate
    Thanks for the input

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    Bumping this up as im ordering bits to remove the heat exchanger on my build.

    Ive order the stud to replace the housing, but im also confused as in shoguns project thread he said he bought a pressure relief valve to fit along side the stud, but i cant find where he puts it, or what its for.

    Also i would like to actually remove the 2 coolant hoses instead of joining due to wanting a minimalistic engine bay. Did anyone discover if its ok to do that? Or do i have to join them? And if joined do they require a restrictor?

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    Use a filter with an integrated valve and you are ok to go.

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    Which ones would they be shogun?

    I was planning on using something like a sard or hks item thats magnetic, along side my thermostatic oil cooler.

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