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Thread: Non starter

  1. #1
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    Non starter

    I wonder if anyone can give me some advice. I bought an AE86 running a CA18DET. The engine wiring was a horrible job, it looked like they'd mocked things up temporarily to see if it'd work and just left it as it was. The relays were just hanging loose in the engine bay, I had 12v cables from the battery running over the door seal, a 1 meter piece of cable that was 5 or 6 different colours spliced together, etc. It was such a mess that I couldn't work out what had been done and just tidy it up. I've stripped it all out and started again.

    I think it's all wired up correctly but it's not starting. The fuel pump primes (I have a pressure gauge, it's at around 30psi), the ECU powers up, the engine turns over, it just doesn't start. I have fuel and a spark. I've removed the CAS and rotated it by hand with the ignition on and it makes the fuel pump prime which I guess means that the injectors are firing. I've checked the ECU diagnostics and it's showing code 55, all clear. Any ideas what could be wrong?

    This is how i've wired it up:



    ECU Power
    Pin 30- 12v constant on "Fused" power source
    Pin 87- Black/ white wire from S13 harness (pin 109, 49, 59)
    Pin 85- Ground
    Pin 86- Ignition on source

    Ignition
    Pin 30- 12v constant on "Fused" power source
    Pin 87- Bigger black/ red wire (pin 45) spliced with bigger blue/ red wire from S13 dash harness (goes to coil pack and F8 connector), spliced with white Oxygen sensor (pin 29) [guides i've read have said that the oxygen sensor, pin 29 is brown. On my ECU it's white]
    Pin 85- Ground
    Pin 86- Ignition on source

    Fuel Pump
    Pin 30- Ignition On source "fused"
    Pin 87- Positive fuel pump feed from AE86 (blue and black wire from AE86 fuel pump relay), black/yellow wire for IACV (taken from S13 F10 connector) spliced into fuel pump feed
    Pin 85- black/pink from S13 harness (pin 18)
    Pin 86- Ignition on source (looped from relay Pin 30)



    Orange wire on S13 harness (pin 43) connected to starter solenoid wire.


    On the previous wiring lash up all the feeds were taken from the engine bay connectors, I've tried to make a neater job of it and i've taken mine from the ECU plug. I can't find the IACV black/yellow wire at the ECU harness. Does anyone know where I can find it other than the F10 connector?

    I used this guide to help me. (the can/am box is basically a circuit board with relays to make the wiring easier. I've not got one, have wired mine up from scratch)

  2. #2
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    Have you tried whipping one of the plugs out and smelling for fuel ?

    If it does smell of fuel, you might have flooded it so you could try the old, "pull the fuel pump fuse" trick and see if its just flooded.

    Sorry I can't offer anything more than this but I know absolutely nothing about what keeps the smoke inside the wires

    You could try PMing Skyshack as he has a pretty good knowledge on the wiring side of things.

    What does the cam/am box look like ? I might have one of them I can send you.

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    This is the can/am box, it looks a nice bit of kit.

    http://community.ratsun.net/topic/53...into-anything/

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    I got it started, I was being a bit thick with my wiring. I hadn't connected pin 58 to a permanent 12v. It is for the dropping resistor.

    I thought it was all sorted. I started it up a few times, it'd start 1st turn of the key. I tidied up my wiring and I was ready to start it properly. Ran it for a couple of minutes, when the fast idle dropped down to the lower warm idle the car made a splutter and cut out. Since then i've not been able to fire it back up. Even the next day when it's cold. Seems strange.
    Last edited by Escy; 20-10-2013 at 23:27.

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    I've spent all day looking at this now and had no joy. I can't start it. It seems to instantly flood the engine. (i've tried unplugging the MAF, IACV, and water temp sensor). I've tried turning it over with no fuel pump fuse. I'm ruling out inlet valves and timing as it was fine yesterday and nothing has changed. I have a good spark (when the plugs aren't soaked with fuel) and fuel pressure is at around 30psi when primed. I've removed the CAS to check the spline isn't broken.

    I'm 100% convinced my wiring is correct as it started perfectly a few times and i've been over it loads checking everything is as it should be. When I started it yesterday, I had the IACV (black/yellow wire) connected to 12v rather than connected to the fuel pump positive (I don't think it makes any difference but maybe this is proof it does?). Since it cut out when the idle lowered (as the engine had decided it'd warmed up) that's the area i'm looking in. I re-wired the IACV into the fuel pump positive but it made no difference. I've opened the IACV up and cleaned it out, no difference. The only thing I can think to do next is open up the ECU and check for any burnt out components.

    Anyone have any ideas why it's flooding straight away?

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    I know you've got a funny setup with the pipework so I'd concentrate on that area TBH.

    Make sure your breathers aren't blocked as the PCV valve should be sucking air from the elephant's trunk across the cam covers to the back of the plenum (via the PCV).

    Make sure the air regulator hasn't stuck closed (you should be able to poke a pencil in when cold). That closes as the engine warms up.

    Have you checked that you can blow through the FICD valve setup ? The (10mm spanner) screw should be set so you can blow through it with a bit of effort.

    When you were adjusting the idle, did you check that plugging the AAC valve back in did make the revs rise for a few seconds ?

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    Thanks for the reply.

    How do I go about checking if I can blow through the FICD valve?

    With the engine breathers, i'm running a catch can. I have the a pipe going from one cam cover to the other with a T piece in the middle and the 3rd pipe going to a catch can (which then has another pipe going out to vent). I blocked off the 2nd breather outlet on the turbo side and blocked off the breather at the back of the inlet plenum. I got this from looking at other peoples breather set ups.

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    The PCV is part of the outlet coming out of the back of the plenum.

    If that is blocked, the only way to get air into the plenum is via the air regulator (which will close when the engine gets warm), via the FICD valve or by keeping the throttle butterfly slightly open.

    If there is no way for the air to get into the engine, it won't run and will flood.

    If you've adjusted the throttle stop on the opposite side of the throttle body to the TPS then maybe you've got it set up now so that the throttle butterfly is closing completely.

    For blowing through the FICD valve, I just meant take it off by unscrewing the 3 10mm bolts (using a socket and a wobble bar) and then blowing into one end and see if air comes out the other. The bleed screw should let some through.
    Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 21-10-2013 at 11:46.

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    That all makes sense and explains why it cut out as it warmed up as I did adjust the butterfly to make it completely closed. It wouldn't explain why I can't start it though.

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    I bought brand new spark plugs and put them in the oven to warm them up. Thought it may give me a fighting chance. It did start 3 times but it died out after a quick rev. I was noticing backfires in the inlet. That made me think timing. So I removed the CAS.

    Hopefully this will explain all. Spindle on the CAS has snapped. I'd removed it twice before and it was fine. There is a chance this is a red-herring and i've broken it removing it as it's a tight fit. It would explain the ball ache i've been getting. Anyone have one for sale?


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    I have one that I was keeping as a spare but I think your need is greater than mine especially as I'm now down to 1 low mileage S13

    I'll see if I can get it boxed up and arrange the courier tonight. Alright ?

    Oh, and make sure the dowels that locate the cambelt cover are in place as otherwise, it can put pressure on the splines and the shaft. That may be why it snapped.

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    You have PM!

    I have read about the dowels, i'll check that.

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    The CAS turned up this morning (thanks Johnny!). I took the cover off and I am missing a dowel for the cover (which wasn't positioned correctly before as the old CAS was tight to fit/remove).

    Positioned it properly (will order a dowel on Monday). Fired it up and it ran lovely. Good to know my wiring is all good as I was getting frustrated with it not running. Going to pull the engine this weekend now to do the rear crank oil seal. Hopefully it'll do me proud then with no more issues!

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    the shaft of my ca18det CAS broke off too.

    These shafts have defiantly a weak point.


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    Blimey this is an old thread.

    So that's 2 in 25 years. Real common that.

    Much more common is the spline to wear or the peg to break.

    Usual cause is the upper belt cover isn't properly aligned and the CAS is not centred on the cam. Fatigue of the CAS shaft would be the final result.
    1,000,000 cycles is about 30,000 miles.

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