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Thread: Polofours s14a

  1. #81
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    So much good work happening!

  2. #82
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    mini update,

    did some more cutting and trimming at the bottom of the B pillar, also opened up the sill more, made the job alot easier for my self even though i now have to make more panels. the access is worth it.




    i am hoping to make the stepped panel next week and finished cleaning it all up ready for hydrate 80 and electrox, will see how much i manage to do this close to Xmas.

  3. #83
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    What did the inside of the rest of the outer sill you cut out look like? Was it very crusty on the inside?

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  4. #84
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    I don't know actually, I just dumped it on the floor, I will flip it tomorrow and post a picture for you

  5. #85
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Thanks bud! Just wondering how bad it is and if some sort of waxoyl or rust inhibitor could save it

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  6. #86
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    Thanks bud! Just wondering how bad it is and if some sort of waxoyl or rust inhibitor could save it
    sorry it took longer than i thought. a really good wax based inhibitor like dynax S50 might stand a chance of SLOWING it down. mines not too bad but no two s bodies are ever alike.



    had a few mornings off of work. was having issues with getting my welder set up right, it would work really well on one inch long section then go to s**t on the next piece. so I focused on an easy repair that required a reasonable amount of welding so that I could sort the welder. I chose the forward drivers side chassis rail hole. it looked like this originally.



    after trimming it back, derusting and treating it it now looks like this.



    i am happy with it, the welds are looking pretty neat considering the issues i have been having, its now hydrate'd and electrox'd. one hole down

    also started on rebuilding the rear sill. rolled a 1/8" step in a small plate that covers a little hole and then bent up an odd piece i had to form a temporary sill line to work to. this will let me line up all the plates and pieces i have to make so that hopefully it all lines up at the end



    Quote Originally Posted by Zeldoz View Post
    So much good work happening!
    cheers man yours is coming along too, you fixed that cut out problem yet?

  7. #87
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Hey Man, happy new year! And thanks for the pic. It's doesn't actually look too bad. What's it like on the painted side? (Sorry to be a pain) I just want to see if mine would be that bad inside. There is very minor pitting on the outside of mine.

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  8. #88
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    It's unblemished on the outer surface, just a tiny bit where someone thought they could jack off the sill. Although having taken one apart you probably could...

  9. #89
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    It's unblemished on the outer surface, just a tiny bit where someone thought they could jack off the sill. Although having taken one apart you probably could...
    Going to try and avoid cutting mine then I bought some good stuff to coat the inside with.

    https://youtu.be/LNIclE8lVnM

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  10. #90
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    Those Eastwood videos do make me chuckle.

    it would be worth have a really good poke around as there will more than likely be holes somewhere in the rear sill near the wheel arch or the bit between the rear of the sill and the chassis rail, dont be shy with a scraper and screwdriver then if you do find a small hole get a video probe in there, that would give you a good idea of how long you have till rebuild.
    Last edited by Polofour; 09-01-2016 at 18:29.

  11. #91
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    Those Eastwood videos do make me chuckle.

    it would be worth have a really good poke around as there will more than likely be holes somewhere in the rear sill near the wheel arch or the bit between the rear of the sill and the chassis rail, dont be shy with a scraper and screwdriver then if you do find a small hole get a video probe in there, that would give you a good idea of how long you have till rebuild.
    Yes they do,thanks the Americans for you! Lol!

    Mine is pretty solid apart from the rear sills and boomerang mounts. I will be checking it all though as you never know!

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  12. #92
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    managed to get a coupe more little pieces cut over the last few days, and am starting to see how I am going to put it back together.



    thats the back two plates. the angled one needs a slight trim but am happy with how it sits, there is a fold at the top thats kind of hard to see from the above picture but can be seen below



    also I started to attack the rust from the inside of the car too. this is behind where the drivers seat is. Hydrate 80 is amazing. I know i havent removed all the gunk left over from the sound deadening but neutralising the rust is more important at the moment.



    then i hydrate 80'd all the exposed sill after removing all the loose rust.



    thats the first coat, the black marks are where its converting the rust after 5 mins! its better than the stuff we use on Aeroplanes!! the second coat smoothes out the finish and gives a good layer that i can put electrox zinc paint onto. they even say you can wet sand hydrate 80 back to be able to put a colour coat over it. mental.

    i think thats about it for now. am hoping to get a few more little plates cut tomorrow, maybe welded in. see how i get on. will also post up a photo of how the hydrate 80 drys, altough if youve been following a few of the other major rebuild threads you will have seen this already.

  13. #93
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Good to see it coming back together.

    Mine has been abandoned for now. Battery is flat and covered in bird sh1t!

    I feel rotten. Need to at least give it a wash on the wknd.


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  14. #94
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    Good to see it coming back together.

    Mine has been abandoned for now. Battery is flat and covered in bird sh1t!

    I feel rotten. Need to at least give it a wash on the wknd.
    you'll get there man, i will read your build and see if i can help in any way.

    its going pretty quick now, i am not sure what i was doing before. probably too much thinking.

  15. #95
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    you'll get there man, i will read your build and see if i can help in any way.

    its going pretty quick now, i am not sure what i was doing before. probably too much thinking.
    Thanks bud. Appreciated! The bit i will beed help on is fabricating the inner bits. I had a spit and was indoors I would have some motivation. But lying on the floor in this rubbish weather doesn't appeal. Plus I have a house to redecorate which my mrs is on my case about. Wanna get that done while the weather is cr4p and then jump on the motors

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  16. #96
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    I will post up a detailed step by step of those for you then. I should be making them in the next couple of weeks. got a decent update on mine but photobucket is being arse.

  17. #97
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Thanks bud!

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  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post

    thats the first coat, the black marks are where its converting the rust after 5 mins! its better than the stuff we use on Aeroplanes!! the second coat smoothes out the finish and gives a good layer that i can put electrox zinc paint onto. they even say you can wet sand hydrate 80 back to be able to put a colour coat over it. mental.
    Hey man, nice work! No need to waste the Electrox, tho, its expensive, eh?
    It's ment to work over clear metal, with nothing on top, otherwise its pointless, better use 2K primer or paint

    Cheers

  19. #99
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m17ch View Post
    Hey man, nice work! No need to waste the Electrox, tho, its expensive, eh?
    It's ment to work over clear metal, with nothing on top, otherwise its pointless, better use 2K primer or paint

    Cheers
    I don't agree with this. I would use hydrate and then electrox over it. Hydrate only converts/treats the rusty bits. The clean metal can still corrode which needs the electrox to protect it. Once the hydrate is dry of course.

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  20. #100
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    so I got some more of the back end of the drivers side sill done. welded in the plates I made yesterday.



    Then more rust treatment. always more rust treatment.

    I patched a few more holes a little bit further forward where the floor tends to rot out behind the seats. it may not look pretty at the moment but I haven't dressed, seam sealed or undercoated them in this picture.



    you can see in the top that the hydrate 80 has coloured really well.

    then I looked at the back piece of the outer sill that I had removed in one piece, it was rusty as you like in the joins where water had got in behind the OEM sealent.
    so....

    step 1: odd piece of 18 Ga sheet.



    step 2: folded up an edge, I used my sheet bender but you could do this with a straight edge some G clamps and a good hammer.



    step 3: match the profile, I bought a shrinker/stretcher last year and its probably up there with the best £120 I have ever spent. Makes life so easy being able to bend angles!!!



    step 4: shape. pencil line. chop chop. easy. I love the angle grinder as much as every other guy however using snips and files means I don't take off a ton of material and have to start again, its good to slow down every now and again...so the wife says anyway.



    see?



    step 5: make the sill lines meet. This is what I mentioned earlier about bending with clamps and hammers. Steady is the word here.



    step 6: Test and adjust. Not bad but it needed some tweaking.



    Got there in the end though, Old pieces.



    Versus new pieces.



    Not bad eh?

    step 7: I cut another small piece and profiled it to match the wheel arch meeting the skin



    It took alot of test fitting and trimming with the tin snips but it was worth it for a good fit. plus it will be easier to weld, it looks like the gaps are large but they are all welded up ok now.



    Not bad for a mornings work. Next panels are the jacking point I accidentally cut out and the panels at the bottom of the B pillar. Considering I knew nothing of metal work when i started this project its mental what i look at now and think thats how i will make that.
    Last edited by Polofour; 19-02-2016 at 13:30.

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