Coolant temperature climbs when you floor it

[Scoupe]

Can do 2/3 of the throttle with it being fine. And just cruising around it's fine. Bit as soon as you go full throttle and get to 6/7k rpm the coolant temperature starts to climb. It comes down again fairly normal speed for cooling down when you drive around normally. Any ideas?

And, it's a stage 2 CA

Cheers


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[ricardomendes]

In the Dash?

[skyshack]

21 year old blocked rad.

[Scoupe]

The temperature gauge in the dash dude? ... Yes.

Skyshack: it's got a fairly new alloy rad in it. Which I would hope would mean that it isn't blocked.

Just driven it and checked the rad after a bit of a hoon. And it's the same temperature all of the way across (although not possibly as warm as I would like it to be!)


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[Slip_n_slide]

Another vote for a blocked rad

Been there, done that, got the re-core.

[Jonny Wilkinson]

Failing water pump.

sent from t'internet

[Jonny Wilkinson]

Or could be running lean due to being stage 2. Check the colour of the plugs. If white, there you go

sent from t'internet

[raddy.]

its just dodgy dash gauge sender,for sure. Had the same thing before.

[Scoupe]

Will have the alloy rad out later to check if for flow. Will be a bit of a ****er to clean like the standard ones though!

Can check the plugs no problem. But she has been stage 2 for ages. So would hope it isn't that!

Raddy: would love to think it is just the sender. Think I have another one somewhere I can swap it with. But can't just take a chance on it!


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[raddy.]

I had exactly same issue years ago, it was sender. If rad is even hot, there shouldnt be blockage in it...but to replace sender is very easy and cheap, definatelly my advice is to begin with it...

[Scoupe]

It's odd that the temperature climbs though. The way the sender works it should cool if it's knackered? No? But I will swap it for another one either way


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[raddy.]

yes,its odd and I wondered same way, but it was just sender. I posted this issue here and suprisingly I got direct advice to replace sender... I dont tell you that its for 100% sure,but its easiest thing to begin with.

[ricardomendes]

the dash sensor, usually

[green_rs13]

ive had it where the spade connector on the sender is loose and wiggles around.

[Scoupe]

Yeah. Hopefully that's all it is. Have a new one turning up at a local motor factors tomorrow. Couldn't be bothered with the hassle of swapping it for a second hand one that also might not work! ... Although I got back from work today to find that one of the nitrile washers on my fuel setup had split and found this



So it's going to be a long couple of evenings!


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[skyshack]

Thermostat not opening fully.
Bottom hose getting sucked flat or kinked, restricting flow.
Belt slipping.
Pump impeller lose / eroded.

Does putting heater on max help?

[Dave270r]

I would check the thermostat as it may be on the way out. Cheap fix too!

[Scoupe]

Got a thermostat to change over as well will defo check water pump belt and bottom hose. Again. water pump is about 3000 miles old. So would hope it's good. As it was a decent one


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[Scoupe]

Oh and skyshack. If you have the heater on the temperature gauge still climbs. But doesn't seem to help it cool any quicker


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[Scoupe]

I think you guys may have had it with the sender. Changed it and where the spade connector crimps on it was a touch loose although haven't driven the car yet because of the fuel cell issue :/

Did notice driving it to the workshop yesterday before I changed the sensor that if you stick the clutch in and rev the nuts off of it the temp gauge would rise and fall with the revs. So fairly confident it could be the sender now


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