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Thread: RB25 RPMs drop and engine dies randomly

  1. #1
    Guest spectre.purple's Avatar
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    RB25 RPMs drop and engine dies randomly

    running RB25 in 14a.

    happened once or twice at first, but now it does that all the time - it starts and idles ok, but then rpms drop instantly and engine dies. sometimes it dies after a rev. sometimes does not start again after it died unless you give it a bit of power.
    figured it must have been a boost leak. swapped the fmic and all the pipes along with a bunch of vacuum hoses as was gonna do it anyway - same shit.
    any ideas?

  2. #2
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    I had a similar problem with my 14a (sr20det) pull up to junction say and the revs would drop to near enough 0 if not it would even stall and sometimes a dodgy idle, combination of leaking Intercooler pipe joins, and a slight split in a vac line.

    I also noticed that when I run with my old BOV as apposed to it being blanked off to run pigeon mod, because the spring was set for standard pressure or was just old and past it (had lost strength in the spring) the BOV's gate wouldn't shut properly and leak causing the issue u said, if u have a bov try blanking it off see what happens maybe?

    As far as idling I put a waffle in my intake pipe ( just a straight metal tube inside the silicone pipe in between maf and turbo with a cross welded in) and that chops the air coming back past it to the maf and slows that air down and thus causes smoother idle suppose that was part and parcel of my cutting out solution for me.. Hope this helps u

    Cheers

    Dan

  3. #3
    Guest spectre.purple's Avatar
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    yeah it sounds like what i had on my sr20 - had a crack in wmic, so just swapped for midmount ic and that did it. had a pigeon on it too, but rb25s are no good without the bov, so im still running a standard one. do have a spare one though, so will swap the whole thing as well jsut to see if that does anything. cheers mate.
    Last edited by spectre.purple; 07-06-2014 at 11:37.

  4. #4
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    Yea sounds like it could be your culprit that stock bov mate post the out come, the standard BOV's have rubber diaphragms I think so crack over time and don't seat and seal properly after so long

  5. #5
    Guest spectre.purple's Avatar
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    swapped the bov and it lives again. another reason to run a pigeon lol

  6. #6
    Guest spectre.purple's Avatar
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    nope still doing it, so wasnt the bov. unless the other bov is shit too.

    ordered a bunch of smoke pellets to see if there are any boost leaks.

  7. #7
    aka Droolingorc Ghazoobe's Avatar
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    I recently got an R33 GTST and it cuts out sometimes when I'm pulling up to junctions/stopping for something or when 'coasting' round corners.
    Is this the same issue your having?
    bovvered?

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    BOV are often the culprit for this issue but looks like its not yours. Unless as you say both are shot. What spec are you running? Maybe too much boost for the stock BOV to handle?? Otherwise I would say it has to be a boost leak!

  9. #9
    Guest spectre.purple's Avatar
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    swapped the bov over, and still running standard boost, so shouldnt be a problem. maybe i will just plug it though.

    thought it was liek that ghazoobe - when you step off the throttle and rpms drop and sometimes they drop too far and it dies - but its not. had that on my sr20 and that was definitely a boost leak as i found a crack in the WMIC, so was fixed easy. you should definitely check for leaks mate - i ordered some smoke pellets yesterday to do that on mine too just in case. they create a few cubic metres of smoke in like 30 secs to test chimney failures or whatever, so i will let the intake suck it in and see if i can find a leak.

    its different thsi time though - i had it running today in neutral with my foot on the pedal for a bit keeping it past 2k rpms, and it killed it even with my foot on the pedal. it starts, runs for a few minutes, maybe a mile or so if you drive it, and then starts dying - and does it fast like you feel you hit the brakes. and then cant start the car again. even if giving it a bit of throttle, which sometimes works. so need to just let it sit over night, and then next day it drives for like a mile and starts dying again.

    shouldnt be anything fuel related, as it would not be ok for the first mile either. and not idle control as it happens even with my foot on the throttle. so maybe oxygen/lambda sensors? MAF? something with air fuel mix maybe?
    Last edited by spectre.purple; 13-06-2014 at 14:23.

  10. #10
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Did you sort this?...

  11. #11
    Guest dannyboi200sx's Avatar
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    Clean your idle control valve and slightly adjust it so when you rev it or put your foot on the clutch it doesn't drop below 500 rpm

    Sent from my E6633 using Tapatalk

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