Whats the difference between chassis black and rust preventative paint? What should i get to paint the unprotected areas before seam sealing and under sealing?
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Whats the difference between chassis black and rust preventative paint? What should i get to paint the unprotected areas before seam sealing and under sealing?
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Not sure in the differences but i have just used a tin on mine.
The rust preventive stuff is rediculously hard when dry maybe the underbody stuff is more like a flexible underseal.
It says you can apply it directly however i wire brushed and ground out 99% of the surface rust and done 1 coat of zinc primer, seam sealed, another coat of primer then a coat of por15 then 3m schutz underseal.
What i can tell you is DO NOT get the bloody stuff on your skin! 2 weeks later and i still have it on my hands!
Last edited by pointz; 16-10-2015 at 07:24.
Bilt Hamber Electrox or, if you are welding, Bilt Hamber Etchweld.
Bloody hell electrox is expensive. Has it actually been tested against other zinc primers? I thought zinc was cathodic as long as its in contact anyway?
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POR15 is effectively a protective base coat, but it is UV sensitive, so needs to be overcoated. The chassis black it a top coat, and doesn't offer the protection of the other stuff. I used POT15 with Frost Chassis Black over the top on my freshly imported car. Nearly 7 years later, and after being stored either outside, on grass, or in a damp garage, there's no sign of tinworm.
There's no point in zinc priming if your using POR, the whole point is that it's applied direct to metal. I can echo the remarks about not getting it on your skin. A member on here did his car lying underneath with nothing on his face, and looked like a Dalmatian for about 6 weeks...
Last edited by Si; 18-10-2015 at 06:56.
So the way i read it is that rust preventative is the same a zinc primer really and the top coat is a little like hammerite? So best would be rust preventative with a stonechip over the top?
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Si is frost chassis black rubberised?
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You need to get rid of surface rust then get zinc primer on the bare metal then go for 3m underbody the rubberised version its a lot tougher and doesnt scratch very easily.
ive always sprayed it on but im sure I read on it you can paint it on.
So i don't need a top coat on the zinc primer before stone chip? or is it worth it for extra protection?"
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No you need the zinc primer before the stone chip.
You want 3m underbody(doubt stones would even mark it as the wire brush didn't do a lot to it)
No you need the zinc primer before the stone chip.
You want 3m underbody(doubt stones would even mark it as the wire brush didn't do a lot to it)
Pretty much, yeahOriginally Posted by jon200
No idea, I didn't use it! The POR15 (Not chassis black, just plain POR15) is slightly though, and has self healing properties apparently. It's tough as old boots. I left some in a yoghurt pot in my shed, and a week later it had melted the pot and cured into a POR15 hockey puck, that I then had to remove from the floor with a chisel. It's bloody tough stuff.
I zinc primed any bare metal then por15'd and a topcoat of the 3m schutz stonechip.
I assume it is ok putting the por15 over zinc primer?
i went a bit crazy and i'm doing the underneath of mine- wire brush on grinder, 2 coats zinc primers,2 coats hammerite metal paint, coat of undersealit better never come f#cking back now
So the consensus is basically as follows then really.
Remove loose and treat rust.
Protect with either zinc primer or POR rust prevention paint.
Coat with either stonechip/ chassis black or both. Stand back and admire the results before tucking it away for the winter!
Im still unsure wether to remove the subframe now and get it all done in one! Priorities will be rear inner sills with cavity wax and rear/front arch areas.
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Yeah but you need to get the metal back to shiney smooth silver or it just seems to start coming back after 10 - 12 months
on my s14a it was cleaned back to bare shiney metal them run some 240 grit sand paper to rough up the surface(seemed to stop the primer faking) then high zinc primer again scuff it up with sandpaper lightly then another coat of zinc primer then I sealed all the gaps in the panels with tiger seal a quick scuff up then a coat of 3m underbody just cus I had a few spare tins I did another 3m coat in places more likey to get chips and scrtaches ie wheel arches and jacking points
if you are doing it by the book and not dripping then after the zinc primer you should do a epoxy paint before the 3m under body
I have a brand new tin of por 15 if any one wantsa cheap tin to try.
No, POR15 (red tin) goes onto Zinc primer lovely but doesn't stick properly to it once it's dried.
It's also pointless. The whole point about POR is that it is applied direct to metal.
If You use POR-15 toi don't need to remove all rust. Just any loose rust. It actually sticks best on top of rust. And it prevents the rust from spreading as it makes an air tight layer.
i know it's a little off beat but whilst talking about rust removal and treatment I'd definitely recommend the bilt hamber deox gel. Blew me away when I used it yesterday. Leave it on for an hour or so making sure it's nice and thick, or you can cling film it over night (mine was 50minutes) then wire brush, clean off and admire the shiney bits or reapply if really bad. Then slap on some bilt hamber electron primer, hydrate 80 or Por15....
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