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Thread: CrazySx s14a project.

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    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    CrazySx s14a project.

    Hey guys, I have been dreading this moment for months now.. rotten sills!!!

    I knew I had some rot in the normal places rear of the sills but wasn't sure how bad. So off came the skirts and I had a look underneath

    Drivers side..

    Scabs..


    Surface rust


    Then I removed the scabs..





    No holes but some surface rot!

    Also this..


    Then onto the passenger side..

    Little scab. .


    Little hole..


    And after some stabbing/digging with a screwdriver..




    The rest of the sills are in good nick..
    Drivers side


    Passenger side

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    Last edited by CrazySx; 30-10-2015 at 19:38.

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    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    So how do I best treat the rust?? Not sure how to go about it? Please help. Will something like deox gel suffice? Then electrox primer and top coat, then underseal?

    I am just worried it will come back.

    Also the passenger side bit where the boomerang sits is pretty solid apart from the hole. I would say the whole is not much more than 10mm in length and and 6 in width. Metal around it seems ok. Weld it and treat it?

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    Guest -ghost-'s Avatar
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    Thats going to need a fair chuck of welding bud

    I found the cheapest was normal vinegar it worked quicker than deox gel with a lot less gunk to fly everywhere but you must but baking soda over it to deactivate the vinegar

    The deox gel works great but you need to get the panel or area as clean as possible before applying the gel and make sure you arp it with cling film.

    If you do it by the book then electrox on bare metal followed by a epoxy paint then seam sealer then a good underbody like 3m.

    oh and you should pump the sills and cavities with cavity wax the blit hamber do a very good one.

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    Take a wire brush on a grinder to all of it and see what cleans up and what disintegrates. Chop out whatever ends up holy and replace with new metal. For anything that cleans up I favour Hydrate 80 and POR15 rust prevention paint. When you've fixed it fill the inside of the sill with waxoyl or cavity wax.

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    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I really didn't think it was that bad. The metal around it seems solid. Do u mean a lot of work to make sure the rust don't come back?

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    IF its solid don't even bother cutting it out, the holes in the picture seem fairly small so in my eyes just cut it out and re-plate it. But like otherwise suggested I'd take a wire cup disk in an angle grinder to everything to get rid of most of the surface rust and then deox gel or kurust or whatever it to clean it up.

    At least this is what I've just finished doing on my S13 and it's done the trick!

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    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by watson View Post
    IF its solid don't even bother cutting it out, the holes in the picture seem fairly small so in my eyes just cut it out and re-plate it. But like otherwise suggested I'd take a wire cup disk in an angle grinder to everything to get rid of most of the surface rust and then deox gel or kurust or whatever it to clean it up.

    At least this is what I've just finished doing on my S13 and it's done the trick!
    Cool! This is what I wanted to hear. I might get a car restoration place to look at it and see how much they want to do it.

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    Probably do it for the majority of your left arm if you're lucky... If you can have a crack at it yourself it'd probably save some money

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    Don't waste your time with kurust. I've never used the gel products, but I've used Hydrate 80 successfully as a rust converter. POR 15 rust prevention is designed to go straight onto rough metal, so I'd highly recommend one or both of those. Then seam-seal, then a rubbery chassis coat over the top like POR15 chassis coat. That's what I've used on mine, 2 coats of each.

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    Quote Originally Posted by handsomedez View Post
    Don't waste your time with kurust. I've never used the gel products, but I've used Hydrate 80 successfully as a rust converter. POR 15 rust prevention is designed to go straight onto rough metal, so I'd highly recommend one or both of those. Then seam-seal, then a rubbery chassis coat over the top like POR15 chassis coat. That's what I've used on mine, 2 coats of each.

    Thanks bud, i think the pics defo make it look worse than it is. The hole is not that big and the material around it is solid. The other round hole is supposed to be there, its not a rot hole

  11. #11
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    Your car really isn't that rusty. I was in a similar position and decided to have mine rebuilt in the hope of getting it done early will stop it getting much worse. If the outer sill has gone then chances are the inner will will need some attention too.

    I will say it again though, yours really isn't too bad
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriscooke View Post
    Your car really isn't that rusty. I was in a similar position and decided to have mine rebuilt in the hope of getting it done early will stop it getting much worse. If the outer sill has gone then chances are the inner will will need some attention too.

    I will say it again though, yours really isn't too bad
    everyone I've seen with the holes around the 7 shape plate off the subframe have needed a fair chunk of work. as soon as the op cracks out the drill/angle grinder wire brush the tin worm holes will start to show.

    Its not a big problem just get it done right now rather than a quick bodge then next year/the year after you have bigger problems.

    I have a pot of por15 I have never used if you want one cheap.

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    It could be patched but if say cut it out, check behind the outer sill and catch it early. The less that needs to be chopped out the better IMO.
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Mine was a lot worse but still not that bad

    Before

    After
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Overall it looks solid. The boomerang mount defo needs patching, minimum like Chris has. That hole could quite easily get a lot larger if you poke around it, though its upto you wether you do as it could open up a can of worms. I would not do as Watson says and just plate over it without cutting it out, always cut out the minimum you can but if you dont it will only spread. I cant stand rust and need to get rid of it when I see it but thats me.

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    Yeah as said above it's one of the better condition S14s I've seen. Looks similar to my old car which I considered solid. But if you plan on keeping it and want to future-proof it then doing it properly is the only way in my opinion. If you're doing it yourself you soon discover that chopping out more is sometimes easier than chopping out just the very worst and trying to weld to rusty metal and some of it sticks, some of it doesn't. But from the pics it doesn't look more than a day's work to do the welding, then treat and paint. Be wary of the curing time on the paint though, I can't remember exactly what the instructions are. Goes without saying make sure you follow the instructions on whatever you end up using because it can make a difference to how effective it is. I spent about 4 Saturdays doing one coat each day, but that's a completely bare shell and the whole underside was shot-blasted first.

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    Thanks for all the advice guys. What shall I do about the scabs? I did stab it quite hard in all those areas and it wasn't soft. The hole is as big as it gets with the screwdriver.

    Do I need to cut out every bit where there is rot, or can I just grind it down and treat it?

    I will cut out as much as is rotten around where the boomerang is.



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    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    I would wire brush all scabby bits until down to clean metal, treat with bilt hambers hydrate 80 but that's up to you, and then paint with bilt hambers electrox primer before over coating. Don't be suprised if you break through and create a hole on bad scabby bits, but as said you could be lucky and not have that happen cos it looks solid enough.

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    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    I would wire brush all scabby bits until down to clean metal, treat with bilt hambers hydrate 80 but that's up to you, and then paint with bilt hambers electrox primer before over coating. Don't be suprised if you break through and create a hole on bad scabby bits, but as said you could be lucky and not have that happen cos it looks solid enough.
    Thanks for the advice bud. I will do exactly that. I have seen your work and it is of a very high standard so I would be a fool to ignore your advice. If you say those products are good then I am getting them. 

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    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    ok.. so sh1t is about to get real!!!


    Also to arrive imminently is:

    Bilt Hamber Electrox, Unique Zinc-Rich Steel Coating Protection Aerosol -400ml Aerosol
    Bilt Hamber Etchweld, High Performance Self Etching Primer Aerosol -500ml Aerosol
    Bilt Hamber Surfex HD -1 Litre Spray
    Bilt Hamber Deox Gel Rust Remover -1000ml bottle
    Valvoline TECTYL 190 Black - Overpaintable Stone Chipping Protection -500ml


    I also ordered this:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HE5k5zU31I

    and thinking about ordering the Eastwood extreme chassis black as it has 3 x the resin as normal paint and dries rock hard.

    Feedback welcome

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