Drag racing set ups

[Jezz_S13]

Not at the moment no. Not sure if it can be retrofitted?

It can.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...&highlight=fts

[autosri]

Hmm drag tyres + stock box + launch control = ..... have a guess lol.

[mcleansc]

After one too many beers and one too many episodes of 'Street Outlaws' I looked a bit into this, found this on ze vebz:

You want no more then 3 kg/mm rear springs, around 2.5 kg/, is better. You want rear shocks with very little low frequency bump valving but a large amount of low frequency rebound damping. If the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The soft spring rate allows the rear to squat and absorb the torque hit, the large amount of low frequency rebound damping holds the rear down for maximum weight transfer onto the rear tyres. The problem is you get a lot of dynamic negative camber when you get enough squat, so you need to set the static rear camber slightly positive (around 0.5 deggres). A rear subframe alignment kit installed in the "Maximum Traction" positions is also a must.

Around 3.5 to 4.0 kg/mm front springs are OK (hardly "hard"). You want front shocks with a large amount of low frequency bump valving but with very little low frequency rebound damping. Similarly to the rear, if the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The limited amount of low frequency rebound damping allows the front suspension to extend therebye reducing the weight over the front and hence more effective weight transfer to the rear. The reasonable front spring rate helps to hold the front tyres onto the track, you may need to steer at some point. The front suspension geometry is pretty much irrelevant, just make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead (zero toe) so they don't provide too much drag.

I'll be subscribing to this and will watch with great interest how you get on!

[hooky]

^^^ Agreed,
On a sticky surface (like Santa Pod in particular), even stock power and torque with hard launches will break things very quickly!!

[Chriscooke]

Maybe I'll just stick with my current wheels and tyres for now until the box is upgraded then

[jumpbike]

I run 245/235 45 17 on 8" rim with no problem

[800bhp]

We'll be using these next year

[Chriscooke]

Sweet

I know you guys have ran 10's in the past, what are you aiming for now?

[dukey]

Realistically to run ultra sticky stuff you'd want to dry sump or some other oil system redundancy.

[800bhp]

Sweet

I know you guys have ran 10's in the past, what are you aiming for now?

Our target is to get into the 9's but we have changed loads of things so imagine we will be pretty slow to start with and then work our way down throughout the year (assuming we don't break it!).

[Si]

Are you doing it on 17s or 18s dude? If 17s I've got a pair of 225 888s and 235 d01js that are due to come off at some point that your welcome to. They're on the limiters, but with a bit of warming may work well as an experiment

[Chriscooke]

Si if that's aimed at me I'll be on 17's mate. I'd be interested once you remove them just let me know costs etc

[Chriscooke]

Our target is to get into the 9's but we have changed loads of things so imagine we will be pretty slow to start with and then work our way down throughout the year (assuming we don't break it!).

I think your idea of slow and mine might be different I'd like to eventually get in to the 11's. I think mid to high 12's is possible with my current setup in the dry and with a new clutch.

[AdamRPS13]

I think your idea of slow and mine might be different I'd like to eventually get in to the 11's. I think mid to high 12's is possible with my current setup in the dry and with a new clutch.

Mid to low 12 id say.