As title. How much oil does the sr gearbox need? Opie have an offer on at the moment and I need to swap out my oil.
As title. How much oil does the sr gearbox need? Opie have an offer on at the moment and I need to swap out my oil.
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
I believe it's 2.4l
As above sounds about right I use MT 90 x3 and end up with 1/4 of a bottle left
thinking of going for the fuchs titan race gl4
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
Yeah Chris MT 90 is also GL4
I recall ordering some other gearbox oil last year (Redline Shockproof) and it was not GL4 so sent it back, apparently if its not GL4 it can damage you brass syncros :/
Yeah thats what i've been reading up on. cheers for the tip though
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
Don't be afraid of GL5's in gearboxes , yes some don't have the right coefficient , too slippery and are more suited to diffs .
Here's Opie Oils comments about GL5 and the EP additives containing extra sulphur from another forum.
"Containing some sulphur isn't an issue, it's the level in the oil that can be a problem and depends on the overall additive package. In the additive package there will be additives to control the acidity of the oil, if the sulphur compounds do produce an acidic byproduct (based on them breaking down, they might not break down), the buffers should control the acidity of the oil. If the additive package doesn't contain enough buffer, the acidity of the oil might be a problem. In reality, the Fuchs and Castrol do not damage yellow metals, we have sold plenty of both of them to know there isn't an issue and companies like Fuchs and Castrol would not be recommending them for use with synchros if there was a problem.
The problem with additives and yellow metals comes from the 1970s and was soon rectified by reputable oil companies. The problem was that original GL5 oils contained levels of sulphur that were too high for yellow metals, leading to corrosion, but when the problems were discovered, the additive package (used by reputable companies) was altered so that the level of sulphur was lowered to a safe level (basically a higher dose of a GL4 additive pack was used)"
I would be tempted to find out the new Fuchs Titan Race Synchro 75W90 viscosity @40°C first , as Red Line MT90 which is 90 Centistokes @40°C isn't good for me from 1st to 2nd until warm and a lower 40°C viscosity could eliminate it .
Now we know , the Fuchs is 96.5 so a little thicker than Red Line MT90 .
Glad you asked this Chris, I'm just about to do mine and can't remember!
I'd it deffo 2.4l?
I think I have 3l of Millers at home which would save me a couple of quid!
if your car gets some good track work then the trick was to over fill them to 3L. I just put some motul 300 in an rb25 box and did some laps with it on the weekend and its nice and smooth to shift/ seems to help to hide slightly slow syncros.
ive red redline shockproof (the pink stuff) in small casing Nissan boxes before and was not very taken by it.
I've just found two full bottles of redline and I *hope* 0.4 of a part bottle in the shed. I'll give them a run and see how I get in. Cheers
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