See my cars currently handling like shit and i have the adjustable lower arms and hardrace track rod ends. Not sure whats going on.Originally Posted by Sean-B
See my cars currently handling like shit and i have the adjustable lower arms and hardrace track rod ends. Not sure whats going on.
I do. Hardrace RC correction BJ's and forged rod ends. Made a huge difference. No more tram lining on the road and a lot more confidence on track. And I'm running 265 tyres up front.
Did you do the rear ball joints as well? It's starting to look like this is the way to go. The only change I've made since last year is to replace Godspeed ARB's with standard S15 parts. Having said that the coilovers might be new as well, can't remember lolthey used to be CS2's 9/7 which were replaced with BC Racing 8/6's
On the adjustable lower arms, I had a set of DW lower arms once before and wasn't impressed with the quality tbh.
If you're running z32 or similar rear brakes it's worth noting that the balljoints on the rear brink the disk dust shields very close to the lower arms. Sure this can be fixed simply with a bit of thought.
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
I've got them on the rear and they work well, but put the lower arm too close to the brake disk IMO.
I have GKTech rear uprights to go on at some point (waiting for their V3 lower arms).
I'm running R33 brembos on the back so same setup essentially. Sounds like a grinder job if need be, although I'm pretty sure I don't have any as the handbrake parts came from an S13. If they are there they've probably already been hacked about to clear the disc
Yep.
Same here. And yes it does bring the lower arm in to contact with the dust shield. I persuaded the edge of the lower arm with a big hammer, seems to have done the trick.I'm running R33 brembos on the back so same setup essentially. Sounds like a grinder job if need be, although I'm pretty sure I don't have any as the handbrake parts came from an S13. If they are there they've probably already been hacked about to clear the disc
Sounds good, I'll get 4 on order along with bump steer rod ends from Apex. I'm not too concerned about the clearance as long as it clears. There's not going to me much flex in the components so it "should" only hit if something breaks.
What alignment? And what's actually the problem? Coilovers to hard?
3* front camber, 0 toe and 7* castor
1.5* rear camber 0 toe
I need to get it checked out. My coilovers feel hard but the springs are only 6/5kg.
Sounds about right to be honest. For road use softer coilovers with stiffer ARBs is best. I'm on 5/4 with big thick Godspeed ARBs. Bushes all nice and fresh. Steering rack bushes made a surprising amount of difference on mine to steering positivity.
0 toe all round was ****ing horrendous on mine. Made it so unstable at speed! Added a bit of toe in and it's been perfect ever since
I've got Hardrace front arb and R32 GTR rear, polly steerig reck bushes, driftworks adjustable arms all round with japspeed lower arms and hardrace anti bump steer track rod ends, and solid rear subframe bushes.
Definitely going to take the car to get the alignment checked and onto a corner weight machine too.
In terms of roll centre correction, look at the Track Day Performance set up as well.
It's a complete front kit: 1 piece lower arms / tension rods, hubs, and offset spacer for the top mount. That has adjustable ackerman, track width and with the offset top mounts you can alter KPI and camber independently. They have 90-110mm roll centre correction and if you want it, some 70° of lock potential.
They are pretty awesome, quite expensive though. There are/were a couple available second hand on DW for the 1k mark.
TDP are working on a rear set up as well which will be equally as tunable.
They sound incredible, but i wouldn't know the first place to start when setting them up lol.
Are the Hardrace/Apex RC correction BJ a longer shank now or still only a taller base?
Have been a longer shank for at least a couple of years. It was back when Bren was active and first tried to sell the taller base version and the guys with knowledge pointed out the redundancy of the design and he then found a different supplier/version
Ah!
Ordered all my parts
One question, I'm changing the RLA bushes at the same time. Do you burn these out like the fronts? Powerflex black will be going in.
When people say it feels better with taller ball joints or hubs, can someone explain specifically what they actually felt driving your car that's different from before the RC mods?
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