I definitely want to swap mine for an S13 before there arent any good ones left. Keep up the good work on it.
I definitely want to swap mine for an S13 before there arent any good ones left. Keep up the good work on it.
Rust pics (because no project thread is complete without them!)
Also got the turbo and mani all ready for new gaskets and most of the engine is ready for new parts, just got to order bearings!
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Do the bores need a hone?
And bearings, any signs of any problems?
To me there is no unusual wear and still std size nissan bearings.
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how big is the lip at the top of the cylinders? do you have any noticeable scratches in the bores (that you can feel with your finger nail).same test for the crank.
you should check them with an internal/external mic really. if you don't have any or a bore glaze buster its probably worth paying an engine shop the hour or so labour charge to measure these.
If you're replacing the rings they do.Originally Posted by pointz
Really as i have read different!
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https://uk.answers.yahoo.com/questio...1085243AAHCmni
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Next to no lip at all tbh and their is no scratches in the bores either
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I'm in Verwah's camp on this one.
You've got rust, shiny bits (that I would call glaze) and scoring in the barrels.
It probably doesn't need the sort of hone you'd give a newly bored cylinder but its got to be better to give the rings a perfectly round, consistent surface to bond to.
However, I'm no expert. I've only rebuilt 7-8 engines in my life.
keep up the good work mate, will be good to see it once its all done.
As jonny says, you're supposed to hone the bores slightly if you fit new rings so they can bed in.
Any recommendations on what honing tool to buy?
I didn't feel I had the right kit to put a honing tool in, let alone a honing tool so I took the head and block to a (fairly local) engineering shop and got them to check the mating faces for flat and, where necessary do as light as skim as possible and give the barrels a light hone.
It is as much about getting the tool at right angles to the piece as it is about having the right/sharp tools.
Definitely 5 spanners on the Haynes manual difficulty rating, IMO.
Im assuming crank needs to come out and then new main bearings?
New main bearings needed?
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You can buy honing tools, I've never bought one so can't recommend. Honing doesn't take long so engineering shops don't charge much for it so I've personally not bothered to buy one. The first main bearing pic looks like it's gone down to the copper but hard to see? I'd definitely replace them if so, I've replaced better looking ones tbh. Imo if the big end bearings don't look clever then the mains won't be too far behind.
Block is off being honed as we speak, crank has been checked over and all good.
Have started cleaning the surface rust from x-member and bay.
Going to order new bearing bigs and mains. Do i need to order some plastigauge to check clearances when fitting new bearings?
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I believe you're supposed to check clearances with a plastigauge but at the end of the day when you've bought new bearings there's not alot you can do if the clearance is out? If you bought the correct size bearings imo it'll be fine but technically you are supposed to check so up to you.
Cheers Danielle, i think i will just get some and check clearances for what it's worth and piece of mind!
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