If you haven't already, do a search for plastigauge in TechS13. I vaguely remember Liquidsmoke and a few others having interesting things to say about it.
If you haven't already, do a search for plastigauge in TechS13. I vaguely remember Liquidsmoke and a few others having interesting things to say about it.
I have done a search on measuring clearances and plastigauge is what has been recommended over and over, will see if i can find the info you mention.Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson
Cheers Jonny
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I seem to recall petrol using one on one of his threads.
Plastigauge?
Wirebrushed and zinc primed half the surface rust, just need to do the front and underside of the x-member
Head is all built (using genuine gaskets throughout)
Also got the block back from honing and steam cleaned it.
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Great job there and quick work too !
What were the valves like ?
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Plastigage is ok for a rough check. It only helps if you know what the min and max clearances are for the engine in question - should be in the manual?
On my V8 I got the crank and bearings measured (I bought max clearance ACL bearings) by the machinist and then I've got two boxes of plastigage to do a final quick check before I install. It's only £13 a box through Frost auto.
This head was the one i already had (the one i posted in tech13 re valves etc)
But yes all good just gave them all a grind with fine paste.
I didn't want to paint the whole bay but by the time i look deeper into the turret tops i may need to just give it a quick spray.
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Sweet cheers
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Painted the block!
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Mmmm coked up much!!! Glad im doing a rebuild now.
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Looking good. Yeah did petrol not use plastigauge in one of his build threads? Might be someone else then.
I will have a look through his s13 thread in a mo!
Just back from a road trip with Mathew8717 to collect a gearbox, x-member, clutch line and slave cylinder.
Only a few more bits to get and bearings then start rebuilding!
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Last edited by pointz; 15-09-2016 at 23:30.
I think you need to check your auto correct lol
Haha late night posting lol
Finished wire brushing the front end and bay.going to put some deox in the seam here as after splitting the seam i have removed 90% of the rust, just some pitting that needs getting to.
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You've done a good job there and it looks like the tinworm hadn't got a real hold anywhere.
One place you need to check though is under the strengthener plate on the turret top. The turret top bends down and joins the inner wing as a seam with a v-shaped groove and the strengthener plate forms a triangular tube. As both ends of the tube are open to the wheel arch, muck and salt get up there and settle forming a perfect environment for rust. If you don't get it out, the strengthener plate then the turret top will rust out.
I removed the front wing (they only bolt on), then drilled the spot welds with a weld-bit and removed the strengthener plate, cleaned then filled the groove with a seam of weld, replaced it with a new strengthener plate I made up then sealed the ends. It might be a bit extreme for what you are doing.
Last edited by pointz; 18-09-2016 at 22:13.
Cheers jonny! I have read through your opinions on petrols thread re the strengthener's and this is the main reason i split the seams as their was some minor bubbling on the edge.
I have put a bit of deox on for tonight and will clean it out tomorrow but what was underneath was minimal, so for now i will stop at what i have done then once the engine is in and running i may investigate further!
Going to get the wings off next and clean up the arches so i can spray the bay and underseal the arches all at the same time then the front is complete.
Not great pics but doing the chassis rail welding at the mo, cut more out than needed but the bottom of the chassis rail was pushed in so replacing it.
Using 2mm sheet to replace whats been cut out.
Re- the stiffeners i am going to go a slightly different way about it than oem but more pics tomorrow!
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Looks good
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