R33 MAF on a ca18det??
I have a s13 running a ca18det, which is having running issues. spluttering under load, at part throttle the car runs fine. however if i press the throttle fairly hard it starts to splutter and sort of miss fire.
i have a r33 maf on the shelf, is it possible to wire this to the standard ca18det ecu? to save me the hassle of tracking down and paying for a maf which may not fix my issue.
not unless you can reprogram the ecu to read the signal form the r33 maf
i assumed as much, i guess an s14 maf would need the ecu to be programmed too, just that i have these in the garage. but no s13 maf's
Are you sure its not hitting fuel cut?
It won't fix it and would need a chip to map the AFM or it will run like an utter bag of nails.
Just clean for peace of mind. Remove the electronic module by undoing the 2 screws and slide it out being careful not to drop the O ring. Spray elements with carb cleaner from front and back until bright and shiny silver colour, do not touch the elements. Refit.
Hard to classify it exactly but pretty much the same tests are done for all possible diagnostics.
Page EF&EC-52 14 Poor driveability - stumble (while accelerating)
1: check flashes of timing light
2: check sparks at plugs
3: check for air leaks
4: ECU mode IV idle switch test
5: fuel pressure check
6: ECU mode III and V tests
7a: (If lambda) ECU mode II test. If LEDS don't flash together unplug lambda and go drive. If improved replace Lambda. If not improved do idle mixture check, do not replace AFM or ECU go look for air leaks.
7b: If no Lambda do idle mixture check - do not adjust screw on AFM, look for air leaks.
Page EF&EC-54 16 Poor driveability - lack of power
1: air filter
2: timing
3: check throttle for rough movement - worn spindle (air leak)
4: comp test
5: Sparks at plugs
6: fuel pressure check
7: ECU mode III and V tests
8a: (If lambda) ECU mode II test. If LEDS don't flash together unplug lambda and go drive. If improved replace Lambda. If not improved do idle mixture check, do not replace AFM or ECU go look for air leaks.
8b: If no Lambda do idle mixture check - do not adjust screw on AFM, look for air leaks.
Page EF&EC-58 20 Engine stall - while accelerating
1: check flashes of timing light for weakness while accelerating
2: check sparks at plugs
3: Comp test
4a: (If lambda) ECU mode II test. If LEDS don't flash together unplug lambda and go drive. If improved replace Lambda. If not improved do idle mixture check, do not replace AFM or ECU go look for air leaks.
4b: If no Lambda do idle mixture check - do not adjust screw on AFM, look for air leaks.
5: ECU mode III test.
Ignition, are the plugs new?
Air leaks, when was the inlet system AFM>turbo>IC>throttle pipework and breathers last messed with?
Fuel pump 1, monitor fuel pump voltage under load. If it doesn't hold at voltage >12V it's either wiring or charging system.
Fuel pump 2, get a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge, a 8mm T (metal) and some 8mm fuel hose. T into fuel line at filter, cable tie the gauge to the wiper and go drive. At idle fuel pressure should be boost+28psi, if not the FPR is duff or a fuel hose is blocked, high - return hose, low - feed hose/filter. If the fuel pressure at high load doesn't track the boost pressure + 28psi then the pump is dead.
a lot of helpful ideas there, intercooler has just been fitted, checked for boost leaks several times. i changed the plugs this morning and it runs a lot better. no longer miss firing.
it is still hesitating/holding back, if i let off the throttle a bit then go again it pulls ok.
i have earthed the fuel pump better, no change.
i doubt it's hitting fuel cut as it is only running actuator pressure. does the standard boost solenoid need to be unpluged?
what are the test modes i.e ecu test mode III ?
only got the 13 last week, came form a mx5 turbo that i could just plug in to the laptop and see everything that was going on. feel like im searching in the dark here.
So I tested for error codes. And got the following
12
23
35
45
51
Also how do I use the other test modes?
I've spent the past couple.pf hours searching, and every post says what the modes do. But not how to access them.
That's alot of faults lol! Reset the ecu by allowing leds to flash 4×
Then go for a short drive and do the diagnostic tests again.
Last edited by pointz; 25-09-2016 at 17:59.
To erase fault codes
Switch ignition on
*Turn diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise
*After LEDs have flashed three times, Turn back diagnostic mode selector.
*Check that LEDs flash
*Turn diagnostic mode selector clockwise again
*After LEDs flash four times:Turn diagnostic mode selector back anti clockwise again.
*switch off ignition
Code Fault location
11 Crank Position sensor
12 Air Mass Sensor
13 Coolant Temp Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
21 Ignition Signal
22 Fuel Pump
23 Closed Throttle Position Switch
24 Park/Neutral position switch (Auto)
31 Additional idle air control valve
32 Starter Signal
34 Knock Sensor
41 Fuel Temp Sensor
44 No fault found
55 No fault found
You have done something wrong. Many of those codes don't exist for CA18DET.Originally Posted by rick1991
CA only has 7 of the codes that Pointz has listed.
11 - Crank angle sensor circuit
12 - Air flow meter circuit
13 - Engine temp sensor circuit
21 - Ignition signal
34 - Det sensor circuit
43 - throttle position sensor circuit
55 - no malfunction
In ALL of these the operative word is "circuit". It only detects open and short circuit and not out of spec output. As in you forgot to plug it in.
Last edited by skyshack; 26-09-2016 at 19:35. Reason: List numbers off by 1 and missing "21!
Can you think of any reason, I would have these codes.
I tried clearing them and it didn't work, I repeated the process a few times too.
Really confused here
Modes
Mode I this is mode it is in when first powered up. It flashes when the mixture is being controlled by the Lambda sensor in closed loop. It can be steady on or off when not in closed loop. Should do nothing on cars without lambda.
Mode II Turn the screw ClockWise, wait for leds flash 2x close together, turn screw Counter CW. In mode II both leds flash in sync when lambda is working +/-5%, should flash at least 9 times in 10 secs at 2000rpm no load/neutral. If not Lambda sensor is duff or you have an air leak (99%). Red led off when green blinking >5% rich, red led on when green blinking >5% LEAN. Both steady on/off means it is in open loop running on rom chip map without lambda sensor correction - normal above 3200rpm as 8bit 1MHz ECU can't run closed loop at high speed. Should do nothing on cars without lambda. (the lack of full range Lambda / closed loop is why it's not in the VOSA emissions book and doesn't have MOT CAT test)
Mode III, error codes. Turn screw CW, wait for 3 close flashes, turn back CCW. Will flash red and green leds to give error codes. Red led is "tens", green "units", red flashes first.
One red flash followed by 2 green flashes = 12.
3 green flashes followed by 4 red is the end of a code ending "3" and start of next code beginning "4" meaning you have to start again.
Mode IV, idle and start switch. Selection of this mode directly after mode III clears error codes. Turn screw CW, wait for 4 close flashes, turn back CCW. Press the throttle +50 to +150rpm (900-1000rpm) the idle switch should break, release the throttle idle switch should make. If red led doesn't show switching the idle switch needs adjusting so it does and then checking that the rpm it switches at, is within limits. Red led also changes each time the ignition switch is turned to start. Green led lights when 20Kmh/12mph is exceeded - diff cooler function / W germany wiper pressure solenoids.
Mode V, dynamic error detection. Turn screw CW, wait for 3 flashes, turn back CCW. Evenly spaced red led flashes 3.2sec period, 1.6sec on/off. CAS signal missing / noise. Green led flashing repeated 2 short flashes, 3.2 secs period, 2x 0.4sec flashes in 1.6sec, then a 1.6sec gap. AFM abnormal change in flow. Green led flashing repeated 4 very short 0.2sec flashes and then a 1.8sec gap, ignition fault on No 1 cylinder detected.
If you just turn the switch CW and leave it there it will keep cycling though the mode selections waiting for the switch to be set back. Mode is number of closely spaced flashes and not the total number. Turning the switch back fully CCW selects the mode.
Led flashes F .. FF .. FFF .. FFFF .. FFFFF .. F .. FF .....
Hmm 12 34 51 23 45
Does sound like a miss-read.
I have tried again to delete the codes. With no success. If I turn the ignition on, turn the acre fully clock wise it will start flashing up codes using both led's together. Which doesn't seem right.
But when I need to wait for 3 flashes. The ecu blinks 2 short the 3 very fast. Which from other posts I have read makes it code no23?.
Not sure how relevent it is but the car is a facelift. 92 uk car
Both leds blinking means those are not the codes they are the modes.
Switch ignition to "on", turn screw clock wise, 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes turn the screw back fully CCW. It will then flash red and green led separately to show codes.
right right right, i think i get this. so if i want mode 3 i need to wait for 3 consecutive flashes?
right, so im a moron. i finally tried testing for codes again... properly. and i got, 55.
sorry guys no codes, i have a MAF, igniter
coil and loom on the way. so ill give those ago when they get here. hopefully something solves it. i have a feeling my issue is spark related.
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