I am coming to the end of my rb25 swap in my s13.
I don't like the look of using the top radiator hose to put my inline temp sensor (radiator fan controller) in as it's too tight so wanted to use the lower hose.
Can anyone tell me what temperature would be a good for me to set the fan going and shutting off?
Thanks in advance
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Do you have any other measure of water temperature because going off the lower hose you've no idea what temperature the engine is actually running at.
Without that you can't really configure a controller in the lower rad hose, you could under or overcool the engine without knowing.
That's a very fair point.Originally Posted by R3K1355
I think I am going to have to rethink this.
Cheers.
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Aftermarket water temp gauge is always a recommendation anyway, the standard gauge is useless and might not even work with an RB swap anyway.
Go for a decent make like Stack, get oil temp and pressure at the same time
^this guy knows.
Since the point in the coolant sensor is to monitor engine/coolant temps putting it at the outlet of the rad which is the point after the coolant has been reduced in temp would be pretty illogical.
You can get temp sensors that clip into the radiator but they will read less accurately and take longer to respond to temperature differences than directly in the coolant. Probably work fine for most applications but depends how bothered you are. You could always just set the fans to come on at a marginally lower temp. I'm not sure what temps RB25s run but I wouldn't imagine you'd be a million miles out if you set the fans to come on around 185-200F (85C) and off at a marginally lower temp but all depends on your fan controller.
I know on SR engines you can get a coolant neck sandwich plate that has a threaded boss for a temp sensor. I'd be surprised if there isn't something similar for the RB
Last edited by shikari chaos; 25-04-2017 at 21:27.
Fan control temp sensor in the rad outlet will be good. The 82°C T-stat will take care of engine temp. It's really the best place for it, as it responds to low air flow, when the rad can't dump enough heat so is passing too hot coolant back to the engine and needs the assistance of the fan. Using the inlet temp the fan has no idea if its needed or not.
Set to about 60°C. It can't result in a sudden slug of cold coolant hitting the block as the temp to the pump will be around 60°C.
I had the same problem with my RBS14 swap and after a lot of searching in this forum there was an argument for both so I went for the bottom hose to keep a clean and tidy look.
I am guessing you have had no issues with it so far then?
How long have you had it there?
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I wanted to run a probe in the coolant path but ended up using one that slides into the fins on the rad. Haven't tested it a huge amount yet but so far it's working really bloody well. Temps seem to tie up with what the PFC Hand controller are suggesting and the fans respond and drop temp rapidly. But then I did buy all the best gear and for what it all cost it should bloody work, ha! GKTECH do a neck spacer, with temp takeoff, that fits behind the coolant neck outlet on an SR, is there something similar available for the RB? Just another thought/possible solution.
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