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Guest
Check its the correct thread. IIRC, the thread in the block is a non-metric size (1/8BSPT on the block side & m12x1 on the turbo side of it ?).
They can weep but if its gushing then maybe the thread has been stripped.
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Guest
I am afraid i will have to take out exhaust manifold and turbo to make some working space. Wont hurt to check them also.
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Well i wish i havent.. 2 bolts missing under manifold, 1 eaten away, upper ones loose. Turbo also holding on 1 bolt. Oil puddle spreading into different post code.. block adapter thread is gone.. i have a feeling this engine will go to bin.
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Crank no start loud bang
Now i need help identifying turbo. I was told its GT40, whatever that means..
Compressor housing is A/R60 M24 1-2, looks like T28.
Wastegate actuator is 448734-5
Turbine housing has only garrett and 40f stamped and it has 6 bolts to the core.
Wastegate actuator arm is not connected, no clip holding it. But wastegate valve is welded in such a way that valve cannot close, it always at least half-opened. Any ideas why would anyone do it that way? Ecu, maf and injectors are all stock.
Last edited by trulex; 08-08-2017 at 16:11.
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Guest
A gt40 wouldn't spin up. Would like to see pictures of the Wastegate. Sounds all wrong to me. Could be a gt2540 ???
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
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Well, it is all wrong. Had so much troubles getting it down. Everything from manifold downstream was welded together. Coolant lines held by cable ties only. Turbine housing looks hundred years old but compressor housing looks newish so it could be some frankenstein hybrid setup. Will take some photos tomorrow.
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"Closed" Wastegate valve position
Wastegate arm
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Its a gt28/40r with a/r .60 compressor and a/r .64 turbine.
Now my question is, will this work ok with stage 2 chip, or should i go for stage 3 setup?
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Guest
Just an update, its been a while..
Even though I have SR20 ready to be swapped sometime in the future, i did managed to eventually fix this ca18.
Well sorta fixed, at least no more oil pouring and it was pouring from just about everywhere.
And most important, no bottom end knock.
Still a lot of small things to sort out, but car starts and drives. Was about time to drive it!
Currently chasing electrical gremlins.
For example, car doesnt start at all with O2 sensor attached. Sometimes it throws codes 21 and 43, sometimes its 55. But it is a guaranteed start when cranking with full throttle.
Also sometimes it idles at 850 and sometimes at 1300ish RPM, no matter if engine/weather is hot or cold.
Could be that i have some vacuum leaks, i suspect on intake gasket.
Anyway, i will keep on resisting to the SR swap as long as possible!
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Guest
You can check inside the camshaft, sometimes the broken halfmoon leaves a visible mark. Usually cleaner than the other half. I had the same situation and was able to correctly place the CAS after a couple tries. It will make loud bangs that's for sure.
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