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Thread: Smoking exhaust help

  1. #21
    Member R3K1355's Avatar
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    If you can't smoke test you can pressurise the intercooler pipework to check for leaks that way, is usually better than a smoke test as you can pump it up several psi.

  2. #22
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    Update:
    I've fixed the cold idle issue. Turns out that when the coolant temp sensor died from being connected to the AAC valve plug, it must have sent 12v back to the ECU and broken it somehow. No faults were being shown on the ECU but after switching it out with another, the car now runs correctly as it should!

    The only remaining fault now is that the car has a lumpy, but stable, idle. The car shakes on idle like its got a cammed V8 in it! as soon as the car is above around 1500rpm the car runs smoothly.

    No other issues drives perfectly, just need to fix the lumpiness if anyone has any ideas?

    Booked in for a smoke test tomorrow, but I don't think that it will have any leaks.

  3. #23
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    Have you read fault codes on the new ECU?
    If the old one was jacked it might not have given correct codes?

    Have you got the injection manual?
    Gives you alot of information on how to check various parts of the system, including sensors and stuff.

  4. #24
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    Yellow is the temp sensor.
    Pale green is the AAC.
    Pale blue is the air reg.
    No 1 injector is grey.

    Yellow taped injector is no 2. Green is no 3.

    Lumpy idle is often due to 2 and 3 injectors being swapped over.

  5. #25
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    R3K1355, I have read the fault codes on the ECU since the swap and no fault codes are stored.
    I've been referring to the factory service manual through this whole process, and I cant seem to find anything wrong.

    Skyshack, I'm not with the car at the moment but I am concerned that I know that my temp sensor is red, and you haven't mentioned that anywhere...
    I'll check the loom later, i'm looking at a picture of my engine bay that has a connector to the air regulator that could be grey or pale blue...

  6. #26
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    Air Temp sensor??

  7. #27
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    Nissan coolant temp sensors come in a vast range of colours but as far as anyone has ever been able to determine are all the same. 300ohm 80ļC hot / 2.5Kohm 20ļC cold.

    I suspect the colour just indicates maker.

  8. #28
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    Sorry, I was talking about connector colour not temp sensor colour. Did you mean the coolant sensor was yellow or the connector? Iíve confused myself I think.
    Where is the air temp sensor? Wasnít aware the ca18 had one?

    Smoke test done and no leaks found. Problem still persists.

    Thanks for your continued replies, makes me feel like Iím getting somewhere at least

  9. #29
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    There isn't an air temp sensor. It's included in the hot wire mass airflow meter.

    The coolant temp sensors are all colours. The coolant temp sensor plug is yellow.

    The loom plugs don't all match the sensor/device they plug into but all the ones I've seen have the same colour coded plugs on the loom.

    Are you saying you have a red plug on the engine loom? Is the car Japanese or UK spec? Is there any evidence of a none OEM splice?

  10. #30
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    Thatís okay then, I didnít see one mentioned in the FSM.

    Thatís what I thought you meant, mines definitely red, Iíve attached a photo Iíve just taken as best as I can for a dark wet evening.


    The plug does look newer in that it isnít half as perished, but still old by all accounts, loom all looks factory and not spliced or messed with at all.

  11. #31
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    Wasn't the red plug part of the JDM 8-port engine wiring?

  12. #32
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    Sorry to reply so late to this, been busy at work and at home.

    But I have fixed the idling issue, turned out to be the injectors, swapped them out with some others and the fault went away.

    Now I'm having an issue where the car cranks for a long time before it starts. Then it runs fine!

    Just problem after problem with this car! Any ideas?


    I wouldn't have thought it would be an 8-port engine, its been owned by a lady, who is now old, from new and is a UK car.

  13. #33
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    Check the timing.

    The ECU temp sensor plug on all other cars is yellow. Yours is unaccountably red and the loom looks like it's OEM.

    It's clearly not 8 port as there would be a big vac actuator next to the FPR.

  14. #34
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    Here is a link to the injection supplement of the S13 manual, it details testing procedure for most of the parts.

  15. #35
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    I've checked the timing and had to advance it from 10 btdc to 15 btdc, but that was with the faulty injectors, not that that should cause any reason for the timing to change? But I will check it again.
    The red plug sound like a bit of a mystery then, unless the whole loom was replaced for some reason.
    Thanks for the link, I've been through all of those except for the CO adjustment one.

    Just had a thought, could the new injectors be leaking, or potentially one, so I'm losing fuel pressure and having to crank more whilst building fuel pressure?

    Had another thing today also, at high revs, it sounded like a flat trumpet going off in my engine bay that continued for a few seconds after I lifted off the throttle, no other issues at the time, just the noise.

    I will get this running well!

  16. #36
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    Try to get to it make the noise again. This time open the throttle using the quadrant on the throttle body so you and listen around the engine bay to find where the trumpet is. A piece of 1/2" hose held in the ear and moving the other end around engine to find where the noise is loudest helps track it down.

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