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Thread: Engine rebuilding recommendations

  1. #1
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    Engine rebuilding recommendations

    Hi again,
    After getting a mechanic to look over my CA18DET which I thought was probably dead, it's not as bad as I thought. Whilst I still want to engine swap the car it seems like it might take a while to source all the parts so am looking for recommendations on where to get my CA rebuilt in the mean time and will do the swap in a year or twos time. I want to go full forged internals and uprated parts but I'm not searching for any specific power numbers it will just make what it makes whilst still being reliable and drivable. Does anyone have any recommendations on where could completely rebuild the engine? Or any parts that would be recommended over others? I don't really have a budget for it as I have just sold my 335i but obviously I don't want to just spend it on pointless stuff. Any help would be very appreciated

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    rebuild with stock parts and stay at 'stage 2' would be where I was at.

    so,,
    measure hone the bores
    measure / polish the crank
    new rings
    new main and rod bearings
    genuine engine gasket set
    lap the valves in
    new oil pump
    new cambelt set


    the workshop manual tells you how to rebuild them and a CA is a fairly basic engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    rebuild with stock parts and stay at 'stage 2' would be where I was at.

    so,,
    measure hone the bores
    measure / polish the crank
    new rings
    new main and rod bearings
    genuine engine gasket set
    lap the valves in
    new oil pump
    new cambelt set


    the workshop manual tells you how to rebuild them and a CA is a fairly basic engine.
    Thankyou for the reply,
    Yeah coming from BMWs these older nissan engines do seem fairly simple. I think I need to get the block dipped as it's got some dried coolant deposits that are pretty thick and as it's coming out I might as well do it all. I need a new piston and rod which I'm guessing need to be balanced? I might go forged just for the hell of it at this point. I also need to get a new sump which seems to be a bit tricky to find but I'll find one soon I'm sure.
    But yeah thanks for your input you kindof confirmed roughly what I was thinking but as I've got limited mechanical knowledge I didn't want to just assume

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    Quote Originally Posted by ejrocks400 View Post
    Thankyou for the reply,
    Yeah coming from BMWs these older nissan engines do seem fairly simple. I think I need to get the block dipped as it's got some dried coolant deposits that are pretty thick and as it's coming out I might as well do it all. I need a new piston and rod which I'm guessing need to be balanced? I might go forged just for the hell of it at this point. I also need to get a new sump which seems to be a bit tricky to find but I'll find one soon I'm sure.
    But yeah thanks for your input you kindof confirmed roughly what I was thinking but as I've got limited mechanical knowledge I didn't want to just assume

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
    I got a spare sump

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    you will be ok using a secondhand standard piston and rod(you can weigh them if you want to be extra sure).


    (this may not apply to CA engines as ive not had one in bits for a few years so my memory is hazy on them) The only thing to watch out for is that, when you take the head off, on the face of the block you will see a number stamped next to each cylinder (a 1, 2 or 3) and you need to get a piston with the same number.

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    Pistons came in 5 graded sizes, 0.01mm steps. Service oversize piston have 0.05mm tolerance and the block has to be honed to give 0.015 - 0.035 clearance. Nominal would be 0.025mm clearance and it would a good idea to aim for that if you replace a piston.

    Pistons and rods should weigh the same to within +/- 2gram.

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