Fresh rebuilt start procedure

[jackg0416]

I'm about to have my fully rebuilt sr20 fired up but i have a query, shall i crank it over first or just start it and run it straight away?

Also the engine builder said run it for 500 miles with the running in oil provided then its good to go. Is that ok or is there a much preferred way?

Cheers

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[autosri]

ask the people who built the engine as they will be the ones who give you the warrantee

[ANDY black s13]

crank over with CAS unplugged and fuel pump fuse pulled as well till the oil pressure light has gone out
then check for oil at the top end through the oil filler cap hole (splash plate may get in way to see properly)
, better still remove the rocker cover and check oil has got to the spray bars and the rockers are wet with oil
that will ensure the pump is working and the pick up is clear and it's flowing oil to the top end as can have problems with blocked oil ways in the head
just starting it and waiting for the oil pressure light to go out is a bad idea imo as any issues with the pump/pick up to close to sump if sump is dented
or top end is starved of oil will ruin that rebuild very fast and too late then to find out/warranty void etc

[jackg0416]

Sounds good, i didn't like the idea of just starting it anyway. My only concern is breaking the engine in correctly due to the new rings.

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[ANDY black s13]

there are many opinions and methods for breaking in piston rings and many will argue one is better than other
I go with when it's started if it sounds good and shows no leaks recheck coolant level and drive it,don't leave it on idle for too long
don't baby it at constant low revs off boost, change up at 3/4k so the rings are loaded straight away into the bores
if you see how most car makers treat a new engine its at full power in 20/30 seconds
use the break in oil as its in there already I guess,but maybe change it at 100 miles or sooner
if the bores glaze from low revs and/or a long idle at first start,it will never make full power

[zeppelin101]

Keep plugs out when you're cranking for oil pressure, takes all the compression load off the bearings to avoid an early scuff if one is a bit dry from assembly

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[jackssc]

As above regarding unplugging CAS to build oil pressure.

I used running in oil and went for a drive straight away. Didn't baby it either. Mix of full rev range.

Basically went for a 70 mile drive on back roads and tried to avoid using brakes at all. All engine braking where possible to bed the rings in.

Back to garage. Drop out the oil and swap in my chosen good oil and a new filter. Then I did another 250 miles. Change oil again. Then another 500 miles before one last oil change the night before tuning.

All done within a week and the engine showed good compression and vacuum on the Dyno. Didn't need any further running in on the rollers

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