Control Arms

[suixo]

I got coil-overs a while back and lowered the car 2cm more a few days ago, now I got too much camber for my taste in the rear. I'm left wondering what I need to get the suspension geometry nicely aligned.

As far as I understand it, the caster doesn't change when lowering the car equally. So I don't need to change anything in the front since camber and toe are already adjustable. I'll probably do an alignment today.

Now, for the back I need at least an upper control arm to reduce that camber, but do I need toe and traction control arms? Does the toe really change by lowering? As for the traction arm I'm not even sure what it does...

[Jonny Wilkinson]

My advice would be to get a full set of rubber ones from apex while you still can. Rose jointed ones are noisy and need more maintenance.

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[jbsauce]

Yes the car toes out on compression so will be come unstable without correcting it. You need a camber arms and toe arms as a minimum.

[skyshack]

The adjustment on the rear camber arm is about +/-5mm. As it moves out the front traction arm can't change length so rotates forwards. The upright pivots on the lower ball joint, reduces the rear caster. As the toe arm is attached about 1/2 way up it needs to extend by about 1/2 the amount that the camber arm moved out.

At 25mm drop you wind up when adjusted to the limit with about 14mm camber measured over the stock 15" rim (400mm over lip) = about -2°. The spec is -1° 40' (11.5mm) to -0° 40' (5mm), mean -1° 10' (8mm).

Both upper links on the rear need replacing to obtain camber and restore caster. The camber arm usually has a non adjustable bolt and washers to lock it so all adjustment is done on the arm. Set camber arm 10mm longer than stock for starters. You need to measure the traction arm, do some trig or set it so the camber arm is perp to the chassis.

I'm not sure if a toe arm is needed but it's usually included in a rear arm set while the lower arm isn't.

[jbsauce]

You need a toe arm more than camber arm in terms of stability in my opinion

[Jonny Wilkinson]

Buying a full set is usually little more expensive than buying the essential parts individually

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[suixo]

I don't want a full set, too expensive. I got myself camber and toe arms. For now it will have to do. The camber is mandatory because I dropped the car like 50mm at least (it was a tank before) and I can actually see the wheel sloping inside the well. Must be something around 4-5º, it's killing the tire and looks awful.

I've read somewhere that the combination of traction and camber arms are to limit the change of toe during the up/down motion of the wheel?. Considering my suspension is stiff as F I don't think it will be a problem xD. I'll just make sure the toe is ok. After this if there are still adjustments required I'll get the traction arm. I've also read that traction arm is just another name for rear caster? Which is also what I understand from what skyshack said.