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Thread: CA Crankcase Breather Hose

  1. #1
    Guest JackB's Avatar
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    CA Crankcase Breather Hose

    I'm wanting to make sure my crankcase breather is nice and clean however instead of just cleaning it, it's probably better to replace it completely.

    Will I run into any problems running flexible 22mm hose from the block end to where the pipe is vertically facing the cam cover, then use a 22-16mm reducer and connect some 16mm hose from there to the cover.

    This would ensure it's all new and clean, and there wouldn't be as harsh of a bend in the pipe either. I assume I'd just have to make sure the pipe isn't resting on anything that would get too hot for it? Any recommendations on where to get a small length of 22mm oil/heat happy hose?

    Yellow - 22mm hose. Green - 22-16mm reducer. Blue - 16mm hose.


    I'm also fitting a catch can(That will properly do it's job of cleaning air) between the exhaust cam cover and intake trunk. Spent a while reading up different setups and decided to choose this. Any negative opinions on this? I could also fit one between the intake cam cover and pcv which would mean clean air everywhere. Read that it's not 100% necessary though.

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    Guest suixo's Avatar
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    IMO catch can on exhaust>intake is better yes, because you spare the turbo and all the intake piping from the oil mist. The intake>manifold goes pretty much straight to the cyls. Some people block that one off, but some other people say it's a bad thing since it no longer "sucks" the vapor out of the covers. Also consider if you block that it's less air coming in at idle.

    As for the crank breather, what I did is just keep the metal tube. Cleaned it well and changed the piping.

  3. #3
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    It's kinda hot down there. All flexible hoses with even a moderate bend will kink and go flat unless the bend is molded in.

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    Guest JackB's Avatar
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    Cheers guys, I think what I'll do then is just keep the oem pipe and give it a good clean out. If the rubber hose part looks worn I'll replace that small section.

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    Guest suixo's Avatar
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    Replace the rubber anyways, just to be safe. It only costs cents and once the engine is in there is no way to access it.

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    Guest JackB's Avatar
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    Can you get a direct replacement from Nissan?

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    just buy an entire ebay silicone hose set. you will find the stock rubber stuff will be rock hard.

    burn all the sht out of the metal pipe.

  8. #8
    Guest JackB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    just buy an entire ebay silicone hose set. you will find the stock rubber stuff will be rock hard.

    burn all the sht out of the metal pipe.
    Good idea to be honest. If I'm down there fettling I may as well do the lot.

  9. #9
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    there is a section of the metal pipe that is dented/squashed and quite restrictive,crud builds up in that area a lot
    I cut one in half to see how bad it was,no longer using it as it looked quite bad,
    may use a copper plumbing pipe version that came on my forged CA build or made a nicer smooth bend larger bore aluminum tube version
    the 90 degree angled block connector stub/take off can fill up with engine crud as well, my old engine was pretty well full it seemed
    not easy to get to and a lot of the crud falls into the block/crankcase
    if missed the fault will not be cured,dip stick can blow out when driven hard was a sign mine was nearly blocked

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    Guest jay1017's Avatar
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    Thats the way I route my catch can, exhaust cam to can & then back to intake trunk. It seems to work fine. I've also not had any issues with the dipstick blowing etc. and my motor is at 130k.

    Perhaps this issue lies within general maintenance?


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