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Thread: A couple sr/s13 issues can anyone shed light?

  1. #1
    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    A couple sr/s13 issues can anyone shed light?

    First of all my fuel pump has stopped priming. The car cut out on me the other day. Checked fuses and stuff all good. Remembered something about the egi relays being dicky so wiggled them and gave them a tap with a screw driver.... still no prime but it started up! When running the fuel pump is going but it won't prime like it used to? It's completely silent until the car strikes up...


    2nd issue. Indicators. They were fine.... but now out of no where they're flashing fast! All bulbs are fine! All working etc but if I press hazard button they flash normal. Any idea? Is it the flasher relay?

  2. #2
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    What bulbs you got in the indicators could have wrong wattage bulbs which can cause fast flashing.


    Is it a walbro and has it been hardwired?
    Bicester heritage Sunday Scramble 7th Jan http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?5...19#post6799719

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    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    I've recently changed the corner lights to some custom led Side light and corner lights which are made to accommodate the resistance. They worked fine before but like I say now all of a sudden they've just started flashing

    The pump is a walbro but I don't think it's hardwired

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    Guest jay1017's Avatar
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    Bad contacts on your indicators, I had that issue before but I'm running bulbs not led.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Member ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    check alternator output voltage is regulating to 14 volt max,
    possible the voltage regulator is going over 14 at 3>4k + revs and the excess volts are cooking your relays/resistors
    just reads as two electrical things have died or cooked? so possible the volt reg is the cause,easy to check and eliminate

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    If volts are going high it's usually the battery. Then the alt reg fails.

    Indicator speed will be due to poor/failed contact for LED resistor. Check the resistance of them with a multimeter.

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    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    Ok further investigation. Tried to start the car up today and the main fuse between the battery (relocated to the boot) and the point I've extended from in the engine bay has blown and keeps blowing when turning the car over. Should I check the starter for shorts?

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    What's it rated at?

    Hitachi pulls "less than" 90A and Mitsubishi 50-75A.

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    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    I put a 60a in. It melts rather than pops. Obviously the high current is melting it.
    As for the fuel pump not priming I've checked both the egi and egi pump relays using 12v wire and multi meter and both close the switch and have continuity through the coil

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    The fuel pump priming is controlled by the ecu. Check your grounds at the pump.

  11. #11
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    check the loom in drivers side front arch incase it has worn. Its common but might not be your problem

  12. #12
    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    further investigation

    Spent 20 mins outside last night.

    found a short between my NEW live from the engine bay to the relay box relocation inside the car....

    started taking the dash out to trace the cable back and check for damage... but by the time id get to the other end the short had dissappeared!!

    I did notice that on my fuse/relay box there is a large gauge white cable running into a 75a fuse and out again which was also coming up as short when i tested it to earth... can anyone shed light on what that cable does? Im thinking starter?

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    The thick white wires from fuse box are for the start/charge system i believe
    Bicester heritage Sunday Scramble 7th Jan http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?5...19#post6799719

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    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    Something really odd going on. Looking into the fuel pump not priming situation.
    The relay works when bench tested... Can hear it close and continuity between coil etc.
    Put it back in the car and check voltages at pin 104 on ecu (12v)
    Check voltage at in and out of relay (12v)
    Coil is closing etc voltage is there but can't hear or feel the relay close when ignition switches. Odd. Anyway voltage is there but still no prime.

  15. #15
    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    Edit: I have voltage apart from at the fuel pump!

    The only voltage I get at the fuel pump is
    3.5v on the yellow wire (pump side of the connector block)
    Guessing that should be 12v? Only get mV readings on the rest

  16. #16
    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    Solved:
    Solution: hitting egi pump relay.

    Sticky relay wasn't closing even when voltage was there. Anyone got one?

  17. #17
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Lol good solution! Pm laurenceb he should have 1
    Bicester heritage Sunday Scramble 7th Jan http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?5...19#post6799719

  18. #18
    Guest Jaymo_sx's Avatar
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    May have jumped the gun. Think maybe the ecu isn't grounding the relay.... arghhhh I hate electrics

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    Possibly a break in the wiring.

    I couldn't start a car, it ran on easy start but not at all on petrol. I had good pressure at the fuel rail. I had volts measured with voltmeter at the injectors and dropper. After a couple of weeks, I put a 21W bulb on No1 and earth, not a glimmer. So I tried 5w still nothing but all the volts had vanished. Got volts at injector relay and on unbundling the loom from the engine bay fuse box I found a break at a corroded splice.

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