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Thread: What’s the correct ECU, MAF and wiring setup?

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    What’s the correct ECU, MAF and wiring setup?

    Hi all,

    I’m looking for some clarification of what ECU, MAF and wiring my S13 should have. When I bought the car it had already been converted to a manual transmission but still running the auto ECU.
    It was registered on 8/1991 but the wiring loom doesn’t have the wiring for a lambda sansor and looks to be the original loom.

    The MAF sensor has the adjustment screw on the side.

    I’ve checked the ECU part number: 23710 44F10 which I believe is an auto 1988-1990 non lambda which should be wrong for the year of the vehicle?

    I tried adjusting the CO recently during an MOT using the screw on the MAF but it made no difference to the readings.
    Am I being optimistic expecting the adjustment to work or should it actually work?

    Thanks for your help


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    Any thoughts on this?


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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    It was probably a late prefacelift or crossover car when they went from pre to facelift.

    The combo you have is correct.

    44f ecu
    4 pin maf
    Non lambda loom


    Why did you need to adjust the co? The mixture screw shouldnt be touched it is preset from factory and is actually meant to be sealed so someone has pikey'd it and drilled out the plug to get at the screw!

    If it were me i would replace the maf with one that hasn't been fiddled with.

    S13's have no emission results for an mot test and can't be tested.

    If you are running rich or lean then you have another issue either maf, vac leak, boost leak, ecu temp sensor, timing etc

    Have you done a self diagnosis on the ecu to check for faults?

    Also you can run the auto ecu no problem i have on my manual converted s13 for many years

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    Technically, the ECU should be a 23710 44F11 for a mid-1991 manufactured car but, especially as its an Auto and they didn't sell particularly well when new, it was probably manufactured during 1990 and hung around waiting to be sold.

    As Rich has pointed out, it doesn't make any material difference whether you are running a 44F10, 44F11 or 44F12 as the other relevant parts fitted to pre-facelift autos were all the same other than the ECU.

    The map on the chip in an auto ECU is different to the map in a manual ECU but it is perfectly safe to run an Auto ECU on a manual car.

    Regards the MOT, cars after 1993 are supposed to have CO figures submitted by the manufacturer but Nissan didn't submit any for the CA. The rules say that if the car is pre-1993 OR if there are no figures from the manufacturer (so any later CA-engined S13s), then the car should be treated as a non-CAT fitted car and should only have to pass the basic 3.5 ppm (or whatever it is) test.

    Any healthy CA should be able to pass that test and, as Rich says, the adjustment screw on the AFM is supposed to be set and sealed at the factory so, if you have problems passing a basic 3.5 test and your AFM is no longer sealed, I'd look to change out the AFM for a sealed 4-pin one.

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    The car didn’t have a the later emissions test for the MOT I just asked to use the emissions tester to check the readings. I’ve refurbished the engine and inlet manifold and never had the engine running in the car since ownership so wanted to check it was running correctly.

    The CO readings were pretty high, about 5.8 I think, so checked the workshop manual and adjusted accordingly. As you say I think someone has been messing with it previously as the screw in the MAF wasn’t covered up.

    I have a few other checks to do but wanted to make sure I’m starting out with all the correctly fitted parts to begin with. The connector on the coolant temp sensor has seen better days so I sorted that the best I could and it seems to be running a little better. It still wants to stall every time you let off the throttle while manouvering and parking


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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by white13 View Post
    The car didn’t have a the later emissions test for the MOT I just asked to use the emissions tester to check the readings. I’ve refurbished the engine and inlet manifold and never had the engine running in the car since ownership so wanted to check it was running correctly.

    The CO readings were pretty high, about 5.8 I think, so checked the workshop manual and adjusted accordingly. As you say I think someone has been messing with it previously as the screw in the MAF wasn’t covered up.

    I have a few other checks to do but wanted to make sure I’m starting out with all the correctly fitted parts to begin with. The connector on the coolant temp sensor has seen better days so I sorted that the best I could and it seems to be running a little better. It still wants to stall every time you let off the throttle while manouvering and parking


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    I may have that plug for ecu temp sender if you want one to solder in? I will check condition later for you

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    That would be great thanks


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    The other thing is to put some fresh, regular (not super unleaded) petrol in it and take it for a properly good blast so it gets nice and hot.

    Its a trick people use to get a car through its MOT when it has a more stringent test to pass and it works. If the car hasn't been used hard for a long while it can get very inefficient at burning fuel and super unleaded in an unmodified car adds to the pollution levels.

    If the engine temp sensor has been left out in the open air or in water rather than coolant for any length of time, it can oxidise and that can give a false "cold" reading. They're not expensive to replace with a new one from a local factors (Nissan ones are a bit more expensive). Don't worry too much if the colour of the plastic on the ETS isn't the same as the one you are replacing. They came in different colours from new over the years.

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    Yea I’ve noticed they’re pretty inexpensive and the one on the car is weeping coolant slightly so I’ll change it for a new one.

    Is there any reason the CA has 2 coolant sensors?

    Do you have any ideas what the stalling issue might be?


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    CA has a coolant sensor for the temp gauge and one for the ECU.

    Stalling issue is probably either inlet gasket leak or badly adjusted auxillary air valves. There are a set of them. You need to download the manual and work through the procedure making sure you've set the air reg, FICD, AAC valve, TPS etc. correctly.

    If anyone has been messing with the breathers/PCV and/or fitted a catch can which does or doesn't vent to air, all bets are off

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    I’m still waiting on my new coolant sensors to arrive.

    Managed to get the smoke machine set up to check for air leaks, and I think I found out why it keeps stalling!




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    YOU ARE SHITTING ME !!!! Someone pop-riveted a warning sticker to the plastic intercooler piping ? !!!!! Jeeeeeessssssssssss !

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    Yup! Great move. I drilled all 4 out and removed the plate then fitted 4 new rivets with a butyl tape seal as a temporary fix. Seems to have fixed the stalling issue and boosts as it should now


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    It's not even February and we already have the fail of the year winner! Whoever riveted that to there, I salute your dumbassness...

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    Wow that is brilliant! Good job its only plastic and hopefully did'nt or won't cause any damage.

    Wouldn't want metal swarf in there, to be so stupid to do that i can't see they'd of been bright enough to remove it to drill it.

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    You may wanna get your timing checked too, cas looks quite off centre.

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    I might have a spare intercooler pipe in my shed. I'll have a look tomorrow.

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    Yea not the greatest of moves! I removed the pipe to drill them out and fill the holes.

    The timing is spot on I checked it a couple of weeks ago while setting up the idle etc.

    Thanks Jonny but I have a front mount kit waiting to go on so the temporary fix should be ok until then


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    Quote Originally Posted by white13 View Post
    Yea not the greatest of moves! I removed the pipe to drill them out and fill the holes.

    The timing is spot on I checked it a couple of weeks ago while setting up the idle etc.

    Thanks Jonny but I have a front mount kit waiting to go on so the temporary fix should be ok until then


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    Could be worth re checking now you have fixed the leak! Just to be safe.

    Only reason i say is because the cas being turned nearly fully advanced would usually indicate another issue be it worn splines or belt off a tooth.

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    I’ll give it another check, thanks


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