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Thread: exhuast manifold- standerd or stainless?

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    exhuast manifold- standerd or stainless?

    hi Folks, i know this has probably been covered to death, but torn between sticking with standard or going for a stainless mani.

    few years ago i decided to stick with the standerd mani when i swapped turbo's to a 28r, after a long debate about going for stainless, only option was going for an hdev mani with the bracing, couldnt find one so stuck with standerd, since then ive gone from 1a setup to 2a hdev tune. turbo is now due for a swap as it looks as though ive over oiled the bb turbo. recently bought a 2nd hand hdev mani but been told the cracks in it arnt easy to get to and cant be garenteed to repair well, which puts me of fitting it.

    im not looking for a polished blingy manifold, as i plan to heat wrap it, the car isnt drifted its just my daily set up for fast road. just want to make the most of the hdev tune, any suggestions or am i best of just sticking with the standerd cast manifold?

    cheers stu

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    To be honest from everything I read when I was looking at manis the general opinion I found was to just stick with oem unless going for 400+ bhp


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    I am swaying that way. Did a search on tubular manifolds and it came up with a lot more threads haha. If the hdev one i bought wasnt so cracked i would have taken a gamble and had it fitted. I may yet still. Got another guy to go an ask their advice on. Everything else is 3" , elboe back, and i had a bracket welded to the elbow to mirror the standerd ones support bracket. So that should help of i do try the hdev.
    There is only one other manofold that "looks" pretty strong, spotted it on ebay about 270 quid, 3mm stainless and heavy duty flanges! Seen the 6 boost one, but has no supports at all, for 800 id expect some.sort of bracing????

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    Guest ianlea73's Avatar
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    There used to be a guy that made amazing manifolds. Think his name was wardy. Someone else on here may have details.

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    As above, unless you are aiming for big power you may actually loose torque by replacing the standard manifold. But Stage 2a will bring you up beyond 300bhp, I can't remember what BHP? From memory the standard manifold only starts to get restrictive at about 350bhp and upwards. Drop Horshams a mail to be sure what their Stage 2a chip was set up with.

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    It was setup with their mani

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    Wardy88 is the man. If you want a recommendation, contact Daz.

    http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?559855
    Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 11-02-2018 at 21:59.

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    Guest ianlea73's Avatar
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    I think chris Shrewsbury has a wardy manifold on his rb conversion too.

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    Pm'ed Wardy see what he says :-)

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    the 3mm ebay ones are best avoided. for a daily driver I would stick to the cast manifold. port match it to the head/turbo.
    its the heat cycles that kills tubular manifolds.

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    I am swaying more towards sticking with cast. I did clean up/grind n polish the insides on head side and turbo side. Pretty much matched it up to the holes in the gaskets, smoothed any ridges :-)

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    Strawberry 14-A VIDAL BABBOON's Avatar
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    For anything under 350BHP stay with stock manifold, there are exceptions but these will be informed and you will know it time to ditch the stock one.
    Quote Originally Posted by sideways14a View Post
    Christ i would bang that harder than a barn door in a hurricane.

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    the H-dev mani/tomei expreme stylee will make a small power gain from 3>7.5 revs over the stock mani
    if its braced like you describe it will be supported enough,my similar design did 30k+ miles on a ebay crackafold with no cracks ever
    imo the h-dev/tomei mani or any thing like that unequal length design will make a power gain if running over stock boost 1a type tune

    look close at the number one runner as it turns down to the turbo flange its quite narrow as it make's the sharp turn,no2 is similar
    look at the same area on outside with no heat shield and you can see a heat spot in the area of the sharp turn,like heat builds in the area of restriction
    I know people make 5 million giga watts on a stock mani but it's nasty looking inside, the unequal design is good for response/power just badly executed
    if the weight of the turbo is supported/a brace similar to the OE you don't need a cast manifold

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    Guest mattvaughan180's Avatar
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    Look up apw engineering his manifolds are the mutts nuts,I’ve just bought one from him and a gt2871r,Andy is a genuine chap and knows his stuff and the manifold looks great,he even said to me on the phone he wants people to try and crack/break them as he’s that confident with his work and if you did break it he will replace for free,honestly go look up his website

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    Cheers for all your help guys :-) ive decided to give the hdev mani a go. Managed to weld it up at work with the digi arc welding on closer inspection wasnt that bad. Ive got a spare stainless elbow that im going to reinforce the bracket i put on it and see how it goes. Like i said the car isnt drifted so it wont be under any side ways strain etc.

  16. #16
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    if you are still on stock engine mounts maybe look into using a firmer engine mount to reduce engine movement
    and lessen the strain on the rest of the exhaust, a small power gain on used stock mounts it can move/twist a lot
    you might get some interior cabin vibes on idle
    I think the manifold will be ok with the bracing/bracket mods

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    if i remember from researching engine mounts awhile back the best to get are nismo engine mounts? i decided it seemed a big job to do so never bothered!!! what mounts would you recomend for a daily sx?

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    I run hardrace street mounts, there is definitely more vibration than standards but the engine doesn't move a lot. Even took off aftermarket engine damper arm thingy as it wasn't doing anything any more. Another thing that helps is having a downpipe that fits perfectly between the elbow and cat back so that there isn't any push/pull on the turbo. Polyurethane exhaust mounts stop a lot of the movement too.

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    the hardrace street will be a good improvement as mike posted , changing them is not a bad job, bit fiddly getting to the nuts
    big block of wood on sump and raise the engine to get them swapped, both sides loose and do one side at a time

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