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Thread: Engine flooding and or running rich.

  1. #1
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    Engine flooding and or running rich.

    I have an s13 stage 2 with t28 and walbro pump. Been having problems recently with flooding the engine.

    Sometimes when I cold start the car it will stall unless I nurse it to life. Once it has stalled if I try and turn it over again and it won’t start. It’s blatantly too much fuel because when I pull the plugs out they have loads of fuel on them. I’ve had to dry out the plugs, and also burn off excess fuel where the spark plugs go and disconnect fuel pump to sort this out.

    Anyone had anything like this before and can help me whittle down how to fix it?

    I have a blowing turbo to exhaust manifold gasket as well- not sure if this is totally unrelated. Will make another post on this issue!


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    sounds like you need to do a smoke/pressure test as you might have an air leak. or your timing is well out. or your engine is just knackered.

    you can just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over to clear flooded plugs.

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    Worn inlet valves ? What is the boost gauge showing at idle ?
    It should be -18 inHg of vacuum.
    If its closer to 0, that would point to inlets.
    If it runs lumpy when cold that's another indicator.
    If it runs smoother when warm, that yet another sign.
    A compression test will rule it out.

    Garages charge more for a compression test than a Gunson compression tester costs from Halfrauds. About £30. They are a piece of piss to use and only require you to
    Pull the fuel pump fuse.
    Run the engine til it cuts out.
    remove all spark plugs.
    Fit the compression tester to one plughole and zero tester.
    Crank engine for 5-6 seconds with foot flat on the throttle.
    Write down the result then move to next plughole.

    When you have the results, post up on here. You want a good consistent set of results across the board, hopefully around 150 on each.

    Inlets on a CA can wear stupidly quickly so don't assume low mileage rules out the possibility.

  4. #4
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    I agree with jonny on comp test it first,suspect soft inlet valves

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    Have you had the car long? Whats the exact spec?

    People have had issues in the past with odd or mis-matched parts, stuff like having much too large fuel injectors without the ECU map to suit.

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    First 2 things to check asap in my opinion are the earth at the back of the cylinder head for the coilpack loom - It can fray and break here so causes a weak spark = bad firing, wet plugs.

    Also, unplug the Engine Temp Sensor - The 2 wire plug just before the thermostat housing - Unplug this, and then start the car and see if it improves, it's a quick easy thing to check. If it improves, then test the resistance of the sensor to see if it's within range and you may find it's knackered.

    Hope this helps.

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    If it hasn't had a hot start by-pass, do it. Connect FPR direct to the vac port on rear of manifold. Plug the vac line near AFM on turbo>AFM trunk.

    Even though the owners manual says floor the throttle and crank it to clear flooding it never works, not even on stock car.

    Pop bonnet, open drivers window. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank engine by reaching though window to turn key. When it fires up, jam the fuse back in real quick.

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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    sounds like you need to do a smoke/pressure test as you might have an air leak. or your timing is well out. or your engine is just knackered.

    you can just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over to clear flooded plugs.
    Yep I’ve done this- cut power to fuel pump it hasn’t done it for a while now as the weather is getting better.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Worn inlet valves ? What is the boost gauge showing at idle ?
    It should be -18 inHg of vacuum.
    If its closer to 0, that would point to inlets.
    If it runs lumpy when cold that's another indicator.
    If it runs smoother when warm, that yet another sign.
    A compression test will rule it out.

    Garages charge more for a compression test than a Gunson compression tester costs from Halfrauds. About £30. They are a piece of piss to use and only require you to
    Pull the fuel pump fuse.
    Run the engine til it cuts out.
    remove all spark plugs.
    Fit the compression tester to one plughole and zero tester.
    Crank engine for 5-6 seconds with foot flat on the throttle.
    Write down the result then move to next plughole.

    When you have the results, post up on here. You want a good consistent set of results across the board, hopefully around 150 on each.

    Inlets on a CA can wear stupidly quickly so don't assume low mileage rules out the possibility.
    Thanks I'll try this out.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by R3K1355 View Post
    Have you had the car long? Whats the exact spec?

    People have had issues in the past with odd or mis-matched parts, stuff like having much too large fuel injectors without the ECU map to suit.
    Hybrid FMIC
    T28 Turbo
    3” turbo back exhaust
    Performance Air Filter
    60mm alloy rad japspeed
    Alloy expansion tank
    Walbro 255 Fuel pump
    NOZ Stage 2 chip with AVCR controller

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nize View Post
    First 2 things to check asap in my opinion are the earth at the back of the cylinder head for the coilpack loom - It can fray and break here so causes a weak spark = bad firing, wet plugs.

    Also, unplug the Engine Temp Sensor - The 2 wire plug just before the thermostat housing - Unplug this, and then start the car and see if it improves, it's a quick easy thing to check. If it improves, then test the resistance of the sensor to see if it's within range and you may find it's knackered.

    Hope this helps.
    Sorry, don't mean to nag, but did you try either of these suggestions yet?

    My money's on a dodgy Engine Temp Sensor until you've eliminated that.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nize View Post
    Sorry, don't mean to nag, but did you try either of these suggestions yet?

    My money's on a dodgy Engine Temp Sensor until you've eliminated that.
    Its not a bad shout. ETS doesn't like being left exposed to the elements (i.e. not having coolant flowing past it) and wiring can get snagged too. If its been left standing it could be that. In my experience, knackered ETS usually results in OK starting but then massive overfuelling when hot but it depends on how it fails I guess.

    It is only a few quid to replace.

  13. #13
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    Blew the engine up on track so I guess I’ll never know what was up with it. Even bought the compression tester as well.


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  14. #14
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    Thanks for all the advice!


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