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Thread: Bottom end rebuild time

  1. #1
    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    Bottom end rebuild time

    After investigating a over excited dipstick wanting to leave a hole in the bonnet with a leak down test it seems like the rings are quite tired and need replacing.
    while i have the SR out i was thinking of replacing all bearings at the same time, would anyone else recommend anything else which would be good to change at the same time?

    Are the ACL race bearings any good? along with ARP bolts etc.
    Also if i was to look into changing out the pistons for a uprated type has anyone had any good reports from a certain make of piston?

  2. #2
    Now with 400bhp....
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    Believe the race bearings wear fast, at least that's what I heard.

    I've gone for, cp pistons, manley h-beam rods, Tomei head gasket, arp head bolts and king bearings (the builder recommended them).

    I went for 87mm pistons and got the block bored and decked, new oil pump, new water pump etc and a full Oem Nissan gasket set and timing chain kit
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    Holymoly chris, nice build no expenses spared there then.
    Iv heard good things on King bearings so ill probably go with them in all honesty, i don't want to be replacing them in a good thousand miles.
    any idea on the oil clearances of the Main and big end bearings?

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    Now with 400bhp....
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    No idea mate, a local engine shop put it together. Engine seems good so far
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    No worries ill see if i can find that info on the mighty web regarding the oil clearances............. ohhh im not looking forward to this

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    Now with 400bhp....
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    Are you sure it needs a rebuild? Obviously if you're getting the pistons out etc then a refresh is a no brainier
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    I've been looking at forged builds and from what I have seen there is noting wrong with OEM main bearings. The advantage they have over ACL and I assume others is that you can buy them in about 8 sizes so you can get ones to exactly match your crank where as ACL only come in one size. For clearence on the bearings you can use plastigauge or your engine builder can measure it for you.

    Would recommend oil pump refurb and replace the main seals whilst you're down there. Timing chains will last for 250K plus but again whilst you are there you may as well for what it costs.

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    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdm_virgin View Post
    I've been looking at forged builds and from what I have seen there is noting wrong with OEM main bearings. The advantage they have over ACL and I assume others is that you can buy them in about 8 sizes so you can get ones to exactly match your crank where as ACL only come in one size. For clearence on the bearings you can use plastigauge or your engine builder can measure it for you.

    Would recommend oil pump refurb and replace the main seals whilst you're down there. Timing chains will last for 250K plus but again whilst you are there you may as well for what it costs.
    Pretty much spot on with an addition of new rings in all honesty, for piece of mind ill end up changing out the chains/ tensioners. possibly look at the state of the crank as well and get it polished if needed.
    have you built many engines JDM_virgin?

    your right chris to be more accurate its more of a good refresh of the bottom end than a rebuild, although i was looking at buying a healthy VVT bottom end to adapt to fit but ideally id like to keep the same engine number the PS was built with.

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    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    On the off chance, has anyone got a Workshop manual for the SR?

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    Engine Builder Mark's Avatar
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    There is a link in the S14 section useful threads sticky

    http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?4...roved-PDF-file

    There is my rebuild thread as well

    http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?1...Engine-Rebuild
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

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    I’ve built a few bike engines but when I come to do mine I want to do it myself where I can. So ive done lots of reading on how to measure and gap things correctly. Any new bits you buy (rods/pistons/arp studs etc) all come with correct torque guides and for everything else use the workshop manual PDFs

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    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    There is a link in the S14 section useful threads sticky

    http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?4...roved-PDF-file

    There is my rebuild thread as well

    http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?1...Engine-Rebuild
    You Sir are the man, I've been looking for the ring gap tolerances everywhere and now i have them so much o thank you man
    ill be having a peak at your build thread shortly

    i was panicking because i couldn't find some of the tolerances but they are on the workshop manual i now have woop woop, although looking at the Main bearing tolerances from the manual they state between 0.004-0.022mm but that is some tight tolerances for mains isn't it?

  13. #13
    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    well today i have popped the PS up on the ramps started to disconnect bits and pieces and found only by fluke something very strange! almost sabotage if anything but for the Jap gent who had the PS before by the looks of it.
    I took the hose off from the cranks case to the induction pipe and found a tapped up battery wedged inside? would probably not helped any problems I've had.

    IMG_0345.jpg
    IMG_0351.jpg
    IMG_0352.jpg

  14. #14
    Engine Builder Mark's Avatar
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    Looks like someone was too tight to buy a catch can and thought this would be a good way to stop oil vapour getting into the intake
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

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    go with the piston ring gap stated by the manufacturer of the rings not just what it says in the manual. I would also gap them on the larger side of the tolerance if your running decent boost.

  16. #16
    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    I've had a few engines built and have used both HKS and CP pistons, also Tomei and Arrow Precision rods. No issues with any of them.

    Standard Nissan bearings are good, I've got ACL Race HX Series in mine at the moment.

  17. #17
    Guest ps13ben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    Looks like someone was too tight to buy a catch can and thought this would be a good way to stop oil vapour getting into the intake
    I’d probably say your right there..... Ohh the humidity

    Thanks for the advice on the rings though man, it’s was going to be a question for when I get the old ones out and the new ones in.
    I’m going to inspect the stat of the original pistons when I pop them out for a change of rings, if they are toast then I’ll be selling a kidney for a set of forged pistons and hopefully get away without sleeves if possible.

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