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Thread: Red S13 update.

  1. #1
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    Red S13 update.

    I'm back with me 200SX S13 project. I bought this car 5 years ago and it was 99% rust free, unfortunately 5 years on the coast has eaten it

    I've not been active on the forum for a while due to buying my first house and I didn't have internet for a while and I got used to not going on it. I now know what it's like to be skint, I may own an S13 but I've been cycling to work for 3 months as the tax ran out and the MOT which it can't pass as it fails emissions. This is likely due to number 1 cylinder burning oil or a dirty AFM or something.

    Since it's been burning oil since I rebuilt the engine 2 or so years ago, I decided to park it up on my drive and I'll rebuild the engine again. I assume I nicked an oil ring on piston installation. I've never damaged a ring before but if you're going to make a mistake you might as well make it on your own car right? I think last time I did a compression test it was slightly down on all cylinders, I might do another test before stripping it down.

    Sorry for the ramble, to cut a long story short the car runs perfect and it looks presentable but it needs an engine rebuild and rust removal.

    Now onto this morning;

    I have hoovered the interior a bit.





    I have also cleaned the drivers door shut and fuel flap.

    Before







    After











    If you look closely you can see the rust forming in all the seams

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    I've just washed it. Hopefully today I get chance to polish and wax it.

    Before





    After




  3. #3
    Guest JackB's Avatar
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    What a beauty

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    Thank you, you haven't seen the nearside front strut tower though. Nearly cried when I opened the bonnet this morning. The camera makes it look better than it is too.

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    I have done a compression test which was really bad.
    120
    115
    70
    110

    So either the engine is more broken than I thought or the compression tester is broken. It's probably the former. I might take a plug out my boyfriends MR2 and see what it does on that. For now I'm assuming the worst. I didn't bother with a wet test as I'm replacing the rings anyway.

    I did start polishing and waxing the car and then the heavens opened and soaked the car whilst the wax was still on it drying. FML



    Roof looks alright, the rest of the car looks sh!t.

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    Guest s13spooner's Avatar
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    Looks smart pig nose for the win

    Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk

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    Thank you, I actually prefer the facelift.

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    Guest s13spooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dastardly View Post
    Thank you, I actually prefer the facelift.
    I did before i got a pig nose and love it haha, ill be getting a kit at some point

    Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk

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    Good news! I have used a different compression tester and it turns out I do have reasonable compression after all.



    Number 1 cylinder still burns oil though so it will need some kind of rebuild. The above pic is cylinder 3.
    Compression is 145, 145, 140, 150. It might have been higher if I'd carried on turning it over but I was by myself and couldn't see the gauge so just turned it over as much as I thought it needed.

    I need to think about my next step now.

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    How do you know no1 is burning oil? Plug? Have you looked at inlet and throttle? When turbo has play and compressor seal starts letting oil by it will tend to go down no1.

    When turbine seal fails it makes a WWII destroyer "make smoke" at fast idle and one way valve won't fix it.

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    Oh right, I didn't know that thanks for the info. Number 1 piston and plug are oily. I think it's going to be ring's though as the engine didn't burn any oil before the rebuild and started smoking straight after. I will check the turbo though as that would be easier to replace lol.

  12. #12
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    Sorry missed the bit about rebuild. Yes most likely a problem with oil control ring on that cylinder.

  13. #13
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    cleans up good ,nice to see what a 13 looks like in near stock form, the later comp readings are good
    I agree with skyshack on check turbo thrust for any in/out play,
    I have killed many a t25/g on various boosted cars and as soon as can feel any in out play it soon starts to show the smoke of shame ,
    leave it on idle a few mins and a cloud appears a few blips/revs and it clears for a bit and comes back soon after smokey
    or pull up to stop after it getting some boost/bit of throttle and a cloud follows the car and it smokes till you pull off again/or rev it
    No1 inlet tract is something like 22 (or might be 18) inches shorter than No4 in total length (stock plenum) so it will take shortest route to No1
    but would still get some oil on showing on No 2 possibly
    No1 exhaust cam valve stem seals may be another suspect for oil ,as well as the suspect oil control ring

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    Thanks, hopefully get a chance to look tomorrow.

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    After work I decided my life wasn't difficult enough so did this.



    I regret the decision to do this job without removing the engine. I've never removed the manifold with the engine in situ before and I won't be doing it again. It took me about 2 hours.

  16. #16
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    I didn't label anything either so that shows either confidence or stupidity. Time will tell.

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    Tiny update.
    Removed bottom half of inlet manifold. No obvious signs of valve seal leakage on that side. Will strip other side, probably will end up being rings on number 1.


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    Today I decided to remove the exhaust side from my head and found this...



    It would appear Andy may have been right all along. There isn't a lot of play in the turbo but I'd say a fraction more than what you get with a brand new one. The blades haven't scraped the side but it would appear to be enough to leak. I wasn't expecting this as like I said before the car didn't smoke at all before the rebuild 2 years ago. After the rebuild it started smoking immediately, leading me to believe I had done something wrong or a part had failed that I'd fitted. I also didn't expect turbo problems since the car has done 38K miles ish.

    This is both good and bad news. Good news because I haven't done any thing wrong and the turbo is easier to change than the piston rings. Bad news because I've already paid for and received the head set. And I've ordered the rings.

    When I removed the inlet there was a misting of oil across all the branches and there was a bit of oil in rocker cover breathers.



    So could someone with turbo knowledge confirm i need a new turbo? I can only assume while I was rebuilding the engine 2 years ago the seal dried up or something.

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    I’d imagine the oil residue is more likely to be from the crank case breather system not the turbo seals leaking. Nearly all turbo cars end up with oil in the intake system through the breathers. Hence people using oil catch cans


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  20. #20
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    Why is the breather system doing that? Its all standard.

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