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Thread: SR Rebuild

  1. #1
    Guest suixo's Avatar
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    SR Rebuild

    I'll be rebuilding an SR (S14) for a swap on my S13. There's a broken valve and piston. And I'm only getting block, full head, injectors and rail, intake manifold and ECU. Also the crank, but it needs to be reworked.
    I've been reading the millions of thread but it'd be nice to get some feedback in person.

    Is it worth replacing the entire valve set for some supertech, tomei or other good brand? If so which one.
    I'll probably forge the internals so any tips on good pistons and rods?

    What I know for sure at the moment is:

    Stock exhaust with split downpipe.
    R8 coil packs and ignition chip delete.
    Wiring specialties SR swap harness for the euro S13.
    Stock ECU with stage 1.
    Z32 MAFS.
    Rocker arms stoppers (there is debate on usefulness but it's cheap so you don't really lose).
    Brand new rocker arms.
    Full set of cometic gaskets.
    ACL bearings.
    ARP studs for various stuff.
    I currrently have a sidemount oil cooler so I'll delete the oil exchange and get the adaptor plate. Prolly the chinese one.
    SR bell housing with my CA tranny.
    GT2560R.
    I'll have to get an air filter for the Z32.
    New chain kit.

    I do have a brand new clutch for the CA, does that work for the SR? I'm told it's a bit smaller.

    Any recommendations and suggestions are welcome. What am I missing?

  2. #2
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    CA clutch wont work on a SR

    chain kit- buy the later SR one with the metal chain guides, be wary of people trying to sell you FWD kits,

    you can put a sandwich plate where the original 'heat exchanger' used to go.
    I would use a Nissan engine gasket set as it will come with everything you need.
    if your only staying at 2560r power levels then you don't need a metal headgasket or ARP bolts.
    if you do want a metal headgasket don't get a cometic one, Athena/cosworth etc.. are good.but you want to get the faces skimmed flat, fit your oil pump front cover when getting block skimmed.

    genuine Nissan or acl or p2m oil pumps are good.

    some say rocker arm stoppers jam the broken rocker into the valve top causing valve to piston contact, whereas if you don't have them and snap a rocker then you will hopefully just get a misfire and some debris in your oil.

    decent valve springs.
    if your fitting new valves then you will need to re-shim your head, you could just buy/do the dual bucket modification instead of shimming.

    watch out for turbo/none turbo valve as the none turbo inlet valves have a thinner stem. you might find you need to fit new valve guides and have them reamed out.

    the off the shelf twin down pipes are a bit rubbish as they are a smaller volume to a 3" system. the split turbo elbows are also rubbish. the cheap £40 ebay ones are actually japspeed. for fitment into an s13 you want S14 not S14A items.

    most stage 1 chips use the stock AFM not the z32.

    as for psitons and rods. make sure your bores aren't tapered before buying theses, then just buy what ever you can get a good deal on.
    Last edited by green_rs13; 14-06-2018 at 19:42.

  3. #3
    Guest dan_evans's Avatar
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    There is a member on here called DESA and he sells the genuine S14 timing kits, VVT sprockets, oil pumps etc.. contact him and he does quite a good deal, iv had a fair bit off of him in the past.

    I used the BC valve springs & Titanium retainers, bought them from Conceptua, pretty decent deal to be fair.

  4. #4
    Guest suixo's Avatar
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    So new clutch.

    you can put a sandwich plate where the original 'heat exchanger' used to go.
    I guess you mean to just remove the "snail". I'm going to remove the whole thing like on the CA and relocate the filter. This way I can get it pretty and clean, which is always a good thing lol.



    The metal HG was something I wasn't completely sure about. When I redid the CA head I didn't bother with it because you need to skim the block and I wasn't going to take it out. But now that the SR block is empty maybe it was worth it. I'm not going to push big power for now but I'm preparing for the future. Same with the ARP bolts, since I'm forging it, why not go all the way. It is my daily, so I'll also have the peace of mind in reliability and knowing I can floor it with absolutely no concern, since it's only stage 1.

    genuine Nissan or acl or p2m oil pumps are good.
    i did forget about that, added to the list. If OEM is good, then OEM it is.



    The head will be completely re-done, re-skimmed, re-allthatcanbe. So a new valve set is no problem. Should i really get new stronger springs? I haven't even thought about that.
    The dual bucket mod is interesting but way too precise work for what I can do.

    the off the shelf twin down pipes are a bit rubbish as they are a smaller volume to a 3" system. the split turbo elbows are also rubbish. the cheap £40 ebay ones are actually japspeed.
    I have no clue to be honest, a friend told me it was more eficient but yeah, a wall to split does reduce area. I do trust his judgement, he's been right about a lot of things until now. I guess I'll just investigate more since there is no hurry until I reach that point.

    most stage 1 chips use the stock AFM not the z32.
    I though it might work but been reading some more and no luck. It needs retune mandatory. And the closest chip for Z32 is the stage3a lol. Is the stock CA afm compatible?

    make sure your bores aren't tapered before buying theses
    Block is getting full attention so we'll see.

  5. #5
    Guest suixo's Avatar
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    I used the BC valve springs & Titanium retainers, bought them from Conceptua, pretty decent deal to be fair.
    You mean here?: www.tmsmotorsport.co.uk/conceptua

  6. #6
    Guest dan_evans's Avatar
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    yes mate, they have their own Ebay shop as well.

  7. #7
    Guest suixo's Avatar
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    What's the deal with coated main and rod bearings? I've been looking around for a new set of ACL, which is usually the most recommended for rebuilds and now I'm more confused than ever.
    Is it really worth coating them? Are the ACL bearings not coated? Is the standard ACL bearings size good for forged rods? Im going to daily this.

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