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Thread: Carbon Cannister

  1. #121
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    bump ??

  2. #122
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    does no-body know the answer ??

  3. #123
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    Anybody ???

  4. #124
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    I think you can take away the T plastic thing and fit a hose from there to the canister.
    Does someone know if taking the cc off will make the car use more fuel/worst fuel economy?

  5. #125
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    Hey Guys,

    I need to install the carbon canister on my S15 to pass an emissions test. I've had a scan through the comments and have an idea, but would really appreciate confirmation on the following:

    1. Canister outlet marked "Purge" goes back to the solenoid on the driver-side radiator support, that in turn connects to the inlet manifold
    2. "Fuel Tank" outlet goes back to one of the hard lines (which one?). This is where I get a bit lost, there are currently two hard lines looped together. Is it just one hard line that is supposed to be hooked up and the other is left unhooked to allow atmosphere bank into the tank?
    3. Outlet on the bottom of the canister is not hooked up to anything and acts as a breather for the system.

    Thanks in advance!

  6. #126
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    There should be three lines to the fuel tank - fuel supply, fuel return and vapour. The vapour line is above the tank fuel level.

    There should be three connections on the carbon canister - to the fuel tank (vapour), to the plenum (purge) and a vacuum line to the control valve (at the back of the plenum on an S14).

  7. #127
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    Thanks so is the other hardline (not connected to the "Fuel Tank outlet") hooked up to anything?

  8. #128
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    Have a look in the S15 service manual - available in the Technical S15 forum's Useful Threads. There are a few diagrams on pages EC 22-24.

    CarbonCanister.png

    Do they check the operation of the system in the Australian test (like USA), or do they just check that it is there?

  9. #129
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    Had a look through the diagrams, it doesn't really mention anything about the second hard line unless I am reading this wrong. I'm pretty sure the operation will be checked as it is going to an emissions specialist for a compliance certificate.

    Anyone on here with the stick system still in place know what it hooks into (if anything)?

  10. #130
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Would also like to rip out all the pipework back to the tank,any more info on this? Cheers

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  11. #131
    Strawberry 14-A VIDAL BABBOON's Avatar
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    You forgot about the convo we had Sat night Paul lol
    Quote Originally Posted by sideways14a View Post
    Christ i would bang that harder than a barn door in a hurricane.

  12. #132
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    I've removed all the piping in the engine bay.

    I just blocked off the line coming out of the tank. I think thats why i get a little bit of hissing when i remove the fuel filler cap.

    But i might just unblock the pipe underneath the car and then it will just vent it to the atmosphere.

    And then loop the two line which come out of the Throttle body.

    If i've done something wrong then let me know before i put my car back on the road

  13. #133
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    I think, it is recommended to not block vent pipe, that comes from fuel tank. I did same, removed all piping and hoses in engine bay, blocked plenum hoses and let fuel tank pipe open near the gearbox, no issues.

  14. #134
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    This is going to be a holy thread revival, but should there be a hissing sound coming from the carbon canister while the engine is running? or is it a vac leak? anybody experienced a vac leak from the CC itself?

  15. #135
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    Hi Guys, I recently removed my can due to a vac leak so thought I would post up some info here with pics which would be useful to others.

    Ok, not too much of a hard job.

    Remove this 10mm nut (it's the 3rd one that you wouldn't know held the can bracket to the body)



    Then remove the 3 lines from the top of the can. The skinny one is a vac line and the thicker one closest to you is also a vac line


    Now you can loosen of the 10mm clamp around the cannister if you want to have a but more manoeuvrability


    I removed it altogether and then pulled the cannister and twisted it so that the angled pipe at the bottom comes through the gap.

    This hose will be attached to the bottom of the can. And connected to the pipe coming from the tank. Pull it off the bottom pipe.



    And end up with this:


    Now remove the top two 10mm nuts holding down the bracket and remove the bracket.

    You will have to pull it out and up. There is a stud from the 10mm you removed earlier which won't let you pull the bracket straight up.



    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
    Last edited by CrazySx; 24-01-2017 at 12:26.

  16. #136
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    Once you have done that, take this hose:



    And push it on to where you removed the previously pictured hose.

    You end up with this


    Then you are left with two spare vacuum hoses. You can either use them for something useful like a dump valve or actuator/boost controller or you can block them off.

    I blocked off the thinner pipe


    And put the other one to use


    Both of these pipes sit under the throttle body. It's easier to deal with them if you remove the top IC pipe and the black hose of the intake.



    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  17. #137
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Hope it helps

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  18. #138
    Strawberry 14-A VIDAL BABBOON's Avatar
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    Well done that man. Will add this to the sticky section now as im sure that could do with a more recent update.
    Quote Originally Posted by sideways14a View Post
    Christ i would bang that harder than a barn door in a hurricane.

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