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Thread: Buying a GTS-t

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    Buying a GTS-t

    Hi guys im going to look at a skyline gtst tomorrow, just wondering what people think, advice ect. Im a bit nervous incase it brakes on me as i am doing a deal with my reliable type r fn2 for this old thing.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162198170034



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    holy crap is that what a gtst goes for now

  3. #3
    Guest jon200's Avatar
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    Basically the same as every other Jap car. Rust!


    FS: HKS SSQV recirc inserts, S14 eccentric rear arm lockout washer kits

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    Its had 9 owners i think

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    Guest auz200sx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by samking13 View Post
    Hi guys im going to look at a skyline gtst tomorrow, just wondering what people think, advice ect. Im a bit nervous incase it brakes on me as i am doing a deal with my reliable type r fn2 for this old thing.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162198170034



    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
    I haven't read the ad or list of modifications but

    Check manifold studs have been replaced if not I advise you to walk away.
    Coil packs will most likely need to be changed because of age let alone running 400bhp
    Check for clutch slip
    When was the last oil change in gear box and diff
    Check oil pressure should be higher on cold start then drop as it warms up. Stock gauge is pretty accurate.
    HICAS lock out bar a popular and cheap option to fix HICAS will make the back end step out really easy and it never felt as planted on the freeway when I drove ones with them fitted strongly advise replacement parts but this is not cheap and most people poo poo it.........until they end up in a stoby pole but each to there own
    Get a four wheel laser alignment done it will eat rear tyres
    Get the cambelt done as soon as you can regardless of what previous own has said and change the water pump at the same time do not use blue print parts
    Put a strut bar on the front at least if it hasn't got one.
    The dash have a tendency to stop working if you use a chip to convert from K to M there is a how to on So.com about how to convert it without the chip if you good with a solder gun.
    Hope this helps to start with.
    Last edited by auz200sx; 16-09-2016 at 22:33.

  6. #6
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    Studs, clutch, coil packs to splitfire, cambelt, waterpump and aux belts have all been done according to the seller anyway.

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    Guest big_mac's Avatar
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    Handbrake seems to point at the roof so I'd be thinking it's seen a few roundabouts late at night, I'd check the arms and associated parts for possible drift damage

  8. #8
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    Well i bought it, seems good so far. Just confused about how the aem tru boost works, any know much about them...apparently it runs 340bhp on setting a then 400 on b

    What douse this actually change, will it run different maps

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  9. #9
    Guest Zornyan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by auz200sx View Post
    I haven't read the ad or list of modifications but

    Check manifold studs have been replaced if not I advise you to walk away.
    Coil packs will most likely need to be changed because of age let alone running 400bhp
    Check for clutch slip
    When was the last oil change in gear box and diff
    Check oil pressure should be higher on cold start then drop as it warms up. Stock gauge is pretty accurate.
    HICAS lock out bar a popular and cheap option to fix HICAS will make the back end step out really easy and it never felt as planted on the freeway when I drove ones with them fitted strongly advise replacement parts but this is not cheap and most people poo poo it.........until they end up in a stoby pole but each to there own
    Get a four wheel laser alignment done it will eat rear tyres
    Get the cambelt done as soon as you can regardless of what previous own has said and change the water pump at the same time do not use blue print parts
    Put a strut bar on the front at least if it hasn't got one.
    The dash have a tendency to stop working if you use a chip to convert from K to M there is a how to on So.com about how to convert it without the chip if you good with a solder gun.
    Hope this helps to start with.


    why would you fit a front strut bar to a car with double wishbone suspension.....

    That's like probably the most useless mod next to fitting racing stripes. I mean sure mcphearson struts have quite a lot of lateral force, but on double wish bone the shock literially just handles dampening.

  10. #10
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    If you are going to track day or drift or drag it modify the sump,these have nothing in the sump for oil control and the rear 'well' of the sump is 45 degree angled ,
    every time you nail it the oil is surging rearwards away from the pick up, an oil cooler will only increase volume by a litre or so,
    and the run it a litre over only delays slightly the spun bearings, the sump needs at least a trap door to lessen oil surge rearwards
    and/or modify the rear wall of the sump bowl to further prevent it,and yes that means pull the motor out to do it
    trust me it is possibly the worst sump design ever for a performance engine,the CA 18 is bad ,this is much worse imo
    nice looking car btw , (they have gone up a bit!),

  11. #11
    Guest auz200sx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zornyan View Post
    why would you fit a front strut bar to a car with double wishbone suspension.....

    That's like probably the most useless mod next to fitting racing stripes. I mean sure mcphearson struts have quite a lot of lateral force, but on double wish bone the shock literially just handles dampening.
    Have you driven one with and without?

  12. #12
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    Have watched this car on the forum, it's been for sale a long while but looked like a good motor.

    GTS-T prices climbing fast at the moment as well. Very interesting stuff!

    Quote Originally Posted by Zornyan View Post
    why would you fit a front strut bar to a car with double wishbone suspension.....
    Strictly speaking it's multi link. I only know this because I was recently schooled
    Last edited by piman2k; 21-09-2016 at 06:17.

  13. #13
    Guest Si's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zornyan View Post
    why would you fit a front strut bar to a car with double wishbone suspension.....

    That's like probably the most useless mod next to fitting racing stripes. I mean sure mcphearson struts have quite a lot of lateral force, but on double wish bone the shock literially just handles dampening.

    Ask Mazda why they fitted one to the FD as standard.

    You still need to have the stiffest and most stable platform possible to allow the suspension to work its best. If there's flex between the turrets, then the shell is moving, no matter where the upper link connects to, and so the mounting points can move which, affects all manner of things from geo to axle paths. It's as simple as that. It's not just about top mount location.

    Also,
    Damping = controlling oscillation.
    Dampening = pissing your pants.
    Last edited by Si; 21-09-2016 at 07:23.

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