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Thread: can you change BEs on axle stands? (engine in the car)

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    can I change BE's on axle stands? (engine in the car)

    or do I have to fabricate a ramp to do the job right ?

    Also - how long can I expect the whole thing to take - beeing moderatly handy with the tools?
    Last edited by slartibartfastt; 12-08-2005 at 18:22.

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    my main concern doing this on axlestands is lifting the engine and gearbox (to get the sump out) when the car stands in those tiny things?

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    yes you can, i did it this way, make sure you unbolt the exhaust as this lets the engine move loads

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    nice tip. thanks

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    Apparently you can take the sump off and do the job just by taking off the bottom of the con rod (excuse my lack of technical words) and sliding the two halves fo the bearing out, thus making it a fairly easy job. So my wise mechanic friend tells me. Couple of hours with no hitches if you know what your doing is a guess.

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    Yes that is right jon boy, the part your talking about is the connecting rod cap, you remove the cap and push the pistone up the bore away from the crank so you can pull the shells out.

    The only think i would also say, is remember that you can't pull the sump out until you remove the oil pick up in the sump, drop the sump a inch (if you can) and you;ll see the bolts to remove the pick up, when removed the sump with just slide out. THe amout of people that smash the pick up is unreal.

    Get a good micrometer to mesure thet crank, refer to the workshop manual for specs of run out and sizes. don't just go to nissan and buy a standard set as you may need other sizes.

    Clarkey

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    How much are these roughly cos im thinking about doing mine. And whats the deal with a crank regrind? Someone once said that this should be done when doing a job like this but that sounds complicated.......Sorry for the hijak!

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    you have to regrind the crank if its out of spec, i.e worn out of shape or undersized. If you don't and you replace the Shells it will not last very long at all.

    Yes it does get complicated as you need to remove the engine to remove the crank!.

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    ive replaced 3x sets of big ends now and its quite easy done 2x in car and one out.
    inspect the big end shells both sides if there is scoring on the out side chances are you will have distorted the con-rods, but not very common, but if the crank jornals have scoring on the jornals or the bearing has welded its self to it the crank will 9/10 need messuring and reginding, dont get welded to crank confused with stuck to it with oil (suction)
    before you buy new shells take old ones out and make sure thay dont already have over size shells. look on the side of the shells should say "nissan std" if there standerd.
    make sure you dont mix up the bottom of the conrods up. if you do the conrods ends are labled 1-4 on both ends of the conrod, numbers are also same way up. make sure when you fit new shells make sure there well oiled before refiting. toque condrod ends to 41-45nm
    hope this helps
    feel free to ask if your unsure.

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    Guys when you take the oil pan out, do you have to take gearbox-block bracket to get access to one of the rear oil pan bolts? Bracket is in the way, I've undone 3 bolts but smth. still holds this bracket

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    Quote Originally Posted by superclarkey
    Get a good micrometer to mesure thet crank, refer to the workshop manual for specs of run out and sizes. don't just go to nissan and buy a standard set as you may need other sizes.

    Clarkey
    Good advice , nissan do various sizes so you`ll be able to get the correct ones for each one. Jst make sure you remember which ones they go in!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vetal
    Guys when you take the oil pan out, do you have to take gearbox-block bracket to get access to one of the rear oil pan bolts? Bracket is in the way, I've undone 3 bolts but smth. still holds this bracket
    Yeah, you only need to move it slightly though, not remove it entirely.
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    write-up I did a while back:

    1) drain oil
    2) jack car up - get it supported on axle stands with the front end as high as possible.
    3) Remove all IC and intake pipes necessary to get to 2 x engine mount nuts - undo and remove
    4) put a trolley jack with a suitable block of wood (used for support) under the gearbox bell housing - jack the gearbox and engine as far up as possible. Make sure you can access the rear of the sump with the block in place ie that it isnt obstructing it
    5) undo 2 x bolts either side and drop the anti roll bar down
    6) undo steering column bolt
    7) undo 2 x bolts either side and which should release subframe once you've prised it off the steering column. Bring it down as low as you possibly can
    8) undo 10 x bolts around sump. You will need to remove the drivers side gearbox to engine to plenum bracket to have access to the last sump bolt right in the corner at the back. Prise sump down
    9) remove oil pick up - 3 x 10mm bolts IIRC, drop it into sump
    10) remove sump from car and get clear
    11) you'll now be able to see ur crank and rods. REmove the end caps of the rods (2 x bolts) and gently tap with a rubber mallet until the come away and off into your hand.
    12) remove shell from cap and replace with new shell. The top shells you have to do underneath the car as you cant remove it together with the piston
    13) retorque all end caps
    14) use a decent rubber sump gasket, refit sump with all bolts.
    15) refit everything else and fill with oil
    16) take fuel pump fuse out, turn over until engine oil pressure light goes out, refit fuse, start her up

    EDIT:
    You don't NEED to drop the subframe, it does make things a whole fcuking chunk easier, but you don't actually NEED to do it. Others swear blind that just moving the ARB out of the way and lifting the engine up high gives enough space for the sump to clear the bay but I never managed that personally....
    Last edited by arry; 02-05-2009 at 08:39.
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    I read this guide before I got to work
    However, I didn't mess with steering, just dropped down subframe.
    I read in another guide (and in the manual) that you don't even have to touch subframe, but couldn't take the oil pan out...
    P.S. I'll post some SCARY pics of my BE shells later

  15. #15
    Member arry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vetal
    I read in another guide (and in the manual) that you don't even have to touch subframe, but couldn't take the oil pan out...
    It can be done without dropping the subframe, but for me spending 50 mins fiddling around trying to find the ONE possible scenario where the sump slides out is far in excess of the 20 mins spent dropping 4 bolts out on the subby - it also helps with re-fitting as there's more room, especially when using liquid gasket
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    Quote Originally Posted by arry
    It can be done without dropping the subframe, but for me spending 50 mins fiddling around trying to find the ONE possible scenario where the sump slides out...
    I'm not sure anymore I've spent around 40 minutes but hadn't figured out how. Maybe (although not likely) it is related to the fact that I've got steering column on the left side

  17. #17
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    don't know, I dont think the steering column position would make any difference.
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    I'm nearing the end of this job just now with te engine still in the car and it hasn't been that bad a job to be honest. Just make sure to drop the subframe and jack up the engine as much as possible as that little extra space makes a big difference when removing and re-fitting the sump ( BTW be REALLY carefull with the oil pick up as i nearly broke it getting the sump off)

    Fitting the new shells is a piece of pi$$ just make sure they are clean and well oiled......

    If you follow arrys superb guide you can't go wrong


    Dave

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    It could be added to that guide that cooling fan shroud is stopping the engine from lifting a little bit more

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vetal
    It could be added to that guide that cooling fan shroud is stopping the engine from lifting a little bit more
    Heh, it's probably cos I dont have a shroud so it didn't affect me
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